Anyone know why I might be getting super weak welds? Im using a malectrics with a 600cca car battery, and it’s hooked up to a charger. 30ms. Short pulse at 10 since the welds seemed to have even less penetration when this value was higher for some reason. I can basically flick off the nickel. Oddly enough, the welds on the negative side are fine, it’s just the positive end that won’t stick to anything
I don’t know too much about malectrics welder, but how thick is that nickel excactly? And are you really sure that longer pulses dont help the matter?
It’s .2mm, I’ve been checking each piece just to make sure too. I haven’t tired longer pulses yet since the cell already gets pretty toasty at 30ms, and I wanted to see if there was anything else I could do before I keep increasing it. It’s also just blowing through the nickel on a few welds.
You have to wait then until someone with a malectrics reports in. I use a kweld and at 55J .2mm nickel welds really good. Idk whats that in ms though, as the kweld varies the puls length on its own.
your right.
and we start again
yeah prob should have done that
the wire at the end now is a little to long but it shouldnt make a huge difference
Malectrics user here…
This could be a couple things
tips not sharp enough
-when my tips get rounded at the top, I notice the weld is more of a hotspot then a weld, and it might not stick as well as a sharper tip would be. Nickel still gets red with this, but the area is too wide to weld unless you crank it.
bad battery
-I started off using a boat battery with 850 cca and 14ms, but after 10k welds, I needed around 40ms+ for similar welds. I’m now at 15k welds and need 60ms. Batteries wear down over time, especially if it’s a used battery (like my lawn mower battery I used at first… that thing was awful but worked)
bad connections
-Tighten everything down hard. If it’s not full contact you don’t get full Amps. Every 2k welds or so I have to check all my bolts because they loosen and make me have to bump up the ms a bit.
If you can, get another 12v battery and voltage match them, then connect in parallel to see if it’s just a weak battery.
Thanks for the insight!
I’ll sharpen them some more and tighten down the connections, and I might need to have a look at my crimps too. What’s a good amount of amps? The welder estimates 1400ish
I hope it’s not this, since I bought a brand new car battery last week just for this, and I’m not sure if I’d be able to get another car battery to link it up with
Try to cut a spacing hole between your weld points, kinda like the 2 cells wide nickel strips you can buy maybe that would help.
I could drill a hole 
Don’t think it would be clean though
critique session 2.0
no balance leads are touching and im gonna protect them (not sure how yet) from where they go out of the batter and into the bms
thanks
I really appreciate this!
I’m away at the moment but once I get home I’ll be trying all the tips you guys have gave me
Colour not fixed
of course
but before i bin the battery due to the wrong colour i was wondering if there are any other issues
I did this but now since the main -ve balance wire and the 1st balance wire are both on the -ve the 1st p group reads as 0. Will this ruin my battery when charging/balancing as it will try to fix this 0.0V group? Is there a setting I should change for it to skip that first one? I am using an ANT bms with the app called MaYi-BMS. How will it balance all 16 groups now?
Sorry to hear about your back and pack!
What triggered the CID’s? What cell voltages are you reading?
Balance wires look close to sharp edges of some nickel
2nd and 3rd p group on left
i made sure they were taped away
will check again to make sure though
edit: your right little to close. will put some fishpaper on the corners of the nickel
First of all, this is a problem right here. You’ve got 2 plastic balance wires crossed. Insulate that for sure.
Also, have you checked the voltage of your first group w a multimeter? Do that to confirm but this looks like a wiring error. Did you do a wiring diagram? I personally wouldn’t leave an error like that and just use the battery bc your bms will not balance your first p-group. That’s potentially very problematic. Look at your wiring diagram and figure out where you made the error and fix it 
I checked the voltage of all the groups. They’re all good. Don’t worry the crossing at the end that will be resolved once I put cover connector on the end of the enclosure.
There are 18 BMS wires for my 16s pack. One for each p group and one main +ve and -ve. Each BMS wire was attached to the -ve of each p group instead of the +ve like the instructions. Here is the 1st p group and overall placement (at green tape).
