The century is +10, -10. With 23deg plates that would be 33 front 13 rear. That’s a bit out there, no?
With 40 plates I figure 50, 30 which to me sounds good.
Ah I see, pnl makes (madex) 40 deg plates. Thanks for the heads up.
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My wallet is itching for a 13s build 
btw what cells are those?
Edit: never mind just saw it 
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The details of that build - especially in mounting the enclosure - are greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot - very helpful!
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Another option would be 42° Randall baseplates. Couple of options, super affordable. But not as pretty as Cal II plates.
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Thanks for the tip! I know randal has 35 but couldn’t remember if they have other angles. 35+10 sounds good for the front. 42-10 sounds good for the back.
Normally I’m 110% form over function, but this one’s so pretty so far… Maybe some colorful caliber 44 with printed angled risers…
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> wedged deck 
> angled risers 
> printed 
I would stick with 44 calibers both front and rear, and only change something if you don’t like how that feels. (My last board had 50 + 7 and 44 - 7, would have liked the back even lower. Or just better trucks.)
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I’ve had really good results with petg risers. So purty! And you can customize to do bumpers, etc.
It does feel silly to wedge a wedged deck I agree.
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Why not 42+10 and 35-10 (:
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(50 and 42)
https://calibertruckco.com/products/
so pretty!
I also have a few sets of these from when chaka was clearancing them out. Wonder if they’re compatible. I think they came with 45 BPs.
Thanks guys for all the baseplate ideas.
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Wish you could still find randal 28s…
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I’m thinking, randal 35 for the front, 42 or 35 for the rear, buy direct from randal, in raw finish, and have a go with durakote or cerakote.
Scratch that 2x 35 makes more sense to buy complete trucks at amazon.
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A bit of motor toughening (thanks @nowind for the trick). The socket screw is 3mm tool vs 2mm for the grub screw.
Gonna be 42° BP in the back (-10 for 32°). Up front will be 35° (+10 for 45°). Going double magnum 93A initially. @RipTideSports if you have a moment, do you think this is okay? Haven’t decided on front bushings.
I always feel silly adding riser to a dropped deck…
Riptide magnums fit. Thinking it might be a bit much roadside…
For testing risers, this is working well. Hex head screw, nonlocking nut, put on backwards. Easy on and off with a wrench and a screw gun. No fighting the nylock, and no fighting the cam action of phillips screws (which they were designed to do to limit torque sigh)
Old timey torque wrench. Very accurate, doesn’t have that spring tension issue that micrometer style click wrenches have. Don’t have to store these loosened. I love old tough industrial tools on ebay for dirt cheap.
After the 648 dries I can put the rest together.
Charge ports came in. I have high hopes for these. Feels nice and robust. O-rings everywhere even inside the screw-on cap. XT60 in background for scale.
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Nice work! So the end result will be a 45/32 split and you have dual KranK 93 Magnums in the back? I may have missed it but what do you weigh?
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Got a new job, work’s been intense! Trying to squeeze out some time for this build, hopefully more than once a week.
Recent screw controversy. Here’s what I remember. Usually motor screws are 10mm, I think? mk1 kit came with I think 12mm screws. Needs to be socket head, as the screw is recessed. I have a stash of 10mm pan head and washer head screws. 10mm looked a bit long, so I bought a bag of 8mm screws.
It’s time to do the fun part, gear assembly! First, I bought both 13T and 15T pinions. Which to use? I made a spreadsheet, including MK1 for the choo choo build, trying to figure out the battery pack situation. 13T for pneumies. 15T for cloud wheels or for suicidal speed.
Re-watched the assembly video a few times (thanks @avX @Linny! I miss the 70’s porno music)
2 sheets for me squeezed tightly. A tiny bit of backlash. Maybe too little… Okay for now.
Loctited the motor screws in. Blue 243, hand tight with a stubby screw driver handle.
Grease! Archoil 8100 I have from MK1. I did a crazy review of grease info in the forums at that time.
I had this brilliant idea. I have leur lock syringes with a variety pack of leur lock tips. Perfect applicator!
Alas, not enough suction lol. Got a little bit sucked in. Works great. Not worth the effort. Photo looks so dirty.
Showing off another cool tool. Wera torque screwdriver 1.2-3.0NM. I have the other one too, 0.3-1.2NM. Awesome little tools.
2.5NM is too beaucoup! I can feel the threads getting ready to strip. Dialed it down to 1.5NM.
Waah my v-rings were not preassembled like in the video. Sigh I gotta do extra work…
Rubber safe lube for the v-ring
If you dick around with skate wheels a lot, a 1/2" nut driver is totally worth it.
Went together like lego. Everything snicks into place. Really a pleasure to assemble. Really nice job Jeff! You should be very proud.
Next is battery planning. This is something I’ve been thinking about a ton, and evolving my thoughts with every build. I really don’t like taking the cover off and having wires connecting the deck to the enclosure. I’m going to try to attach everything to the deck, and try to design panels for all the wires, ports and switches, that fit into cutouts in the lip of the enclosure.
Either that, or everything gets built into the enclosure, and I have disconnects for the phase and balance wires (if I even use the balance wires. Always a headache with how fragile the pcb, wires, connectors are. HFI ftw!)
Anyway, for the battery, if the pack is VHB tape / velcro to the deck, the flex direction is a bit weird, vs fastened into the enclosure. The series joints should be on the side nearest to the deck, but ugh I want to see the wiring when I take the cover off. So I guess I’ll put a bit more slack in the series wires. If I have room I’m going to try balance wires down the middle in some cable loom.
Not thought about the charge port, loop key, balance connector (this one’s big, 24-28mm!) locations yet.
Hm I might throw a spare pack in there and do the ill advised maiden ride that breaks a ton of crap…
@avX the drives are sooo sexy.
Reminder to self (TODO) I did not loctite the mount plate screws. 15NM on the middle one, 10NM on the others. Will go back for this when I confirm the angle is bueno. Another TODO, grub screws for the axles.
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These are next. Red TPU. Oooh this looks tough to print!
Actually, I have this nasty red PLA+ loaded up (needs to print HOT, doesn’t stick to bed). Will see if I can use up some of this nasty stuff!
so are your tools and pictures 
do you have a link to that torque screwdriver?
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I bought them on amazon.de. amazon makes it kind of easy to shop at various amazons, with reasonable shipping and currency conversions. German tools are usually cheaper on amazon.de.
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holy crap, it’s a 100bucks for one. I think i’m good with my allen key.
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