I have v1 tubes around. I’ll compare in the morning. Let’s see if @haggyboard.timo or @haggyboard.jeff can answer.
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The mk2s need to breathe. Let them out of their packaging and assemble it already! Haha
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Today’s the big day. I have the slr with macro lens ready. Debating whether to pull out the tripod and lights. 
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Go all out, we will appreciate that.
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Okay so I was thinking I’d get the drives assembled today, but it’s actually better to get the enclosure mounted first, and I think I need to drill some new holes for the rear truck. Also gotta cut some motor shafts down. So I’m gonna take my time and get this thing as good as I’m capable of. Some herringbone porn though. RIP lhb’s hosting bill.
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Damn you, your parts list is nearly identical to mine, just better in every way 
Looking forward to the completed build 
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I don’t have a drill press. Sigh I wish I could say all 4 holes were perfect. 3 out of 4…
(too lazy to fix white balance…)
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Yesss it’s happening! Can’t wait to see the final result 
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Let’s see what parts I’ll need from china that’ll stall the build a few months…
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You put painters tape everywhere BUT where you drilled? 
I use it to stop the wood from splicing up…
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I use painter’s tape a lot to line things up. Usually with drilling wood, the blowout is on the backside. If I’m worried about entry gashes, I used brad point drill bits.
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I’ve given enclosure mounting threaded inserts and screws a tremendous amount of thought. Tried a lot of stuff. This is because I have a few boards, and a few more planned, so I need some standardization. Some rules I set for myself:
- imperial hardware for skate parts, metric for everything else. DO NOT MIX.
- imperial is philips, usually pan head. metric is hex, usually socket head.
- NO IMPERIAL HEX ALLOWED. Absolutely not.
- small hex strips really easily, so hex must be socket head not button or pan head, as the hex hole is one size larger in socket head. This is relaxed for m6 and up.
- no torx. hard pass. j/k it’s a nice fastener, but I don’t want to carry yet more tools in my emergency bag
So this means threaded inserts will be metric socket head. I’ve tried m4, m5 and m6. I like m6 best but it takes a lot of space. sometimes m4 is required because things are so small. I don’t want 3 sizes, so ABSOLUTELY NO M5.
I’ve tried the softwood and hardwood EZ Lok inserts. Don’t love them. Tried the cheap china softwood brass inserts. About the same quality! The difficult thing is to find ones that are flange-less and 10mm or less. Because the deck is curved where the screw goes in, the inserts need to be shorter than the thickness of the deck. 10mm inserts I’ve found are pretty tight. Sometimes I poke through, sometimes I don’t quite get deep enough. I’ve resolved to grinding the inserts down to 8mm or so for future.
I also bought but have not tried the stainless steel inserts for steel, that @mmaner favors. m4 ones are tiny, much smaller than the ez lok brass ones. Gonna try these for this build.
I have a pile of those fancy anodized washers everyone’s using. Honestly I prefer the ugly neoprene backed washers like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-270-Pcs-Stainless-Neoprene-Assortment/dp/B07DK91QBP/
But I think no room on this enclosure.
So it’s gonna be m4 socket head with stainless steel inserts and fancy washers.
As for how many and where,
@eboosted 5 per side stay away from corners
@adman 10 per side (!!) Subsonic sharpied 10 spots per side on my enclosure.
@kfromthebay 5 per side
@agentdev 5 per side, then 7 per side
Just eyeballing it I thought 5 per side.
Tomorrow will be hole drilling day. Always scary
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Dude, I envy your ability to organize.
Good luck! I swear inserts are the most daunting task of any build lol
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(I still can’t find anything!)
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Enclosure mounted. Sigh what a relief. It takes me basically all day, and hopefully it’s only slightly misaligned.
Mark the holes. This is a huge pain with a steel tape measure. I should use a lay-flat one next time. Mark the circle, and some semblance of center.
My lovely blue tape alignment method…
I drilled a small hole first to get an accurate start, then about a M4.5 hole in the enclosure, angled 90deg to the enclosure lip surface. I let the M4.5 drill a few mm into the wood. Then remove the enclosure and drill the insert hole. Everything very carefully.
I reviewed @Psychotiller’s guide (thanks man. I hope you make it out of your hole. if I can help in any way plz let me know)
Also thanks @deckoz I think you hate us but I don’t hate you. If you do another drunken holiday vanity search I hope you see this, and that I’m still grateful for your posts.
I pause here to wipe the epoxy, so I don’t permaglue the tool.
@mmaner those inserts were better! The smaller diameter really makes a difference, and 8mm tall.
(macro lens so fun)
The first hole is murder, sooo painful and anxiety inducing. The next 3 are also nervous, then it gets easier.
Go 2 at a time unmounting everything each round, to give myself a chance at alignment.
I used a quick clamp on the rear for every round.
(oooh yeah eat that iphone!)
Whew, what a relief. Now to the fun stuff, the drives. I’m gonna see if I can find 40deg base plates. Otherwise it’s the caliber 44. I don’t like to use the adjustable base plates if I know the angle ain’t ever changing.
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Quicky turning into one of my favourite build threads. I’m a sucker for hd pictures and good writeups. Well done !
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This will be the most precisely built board ever!
I just eyeball everything. (Then hate myself whenever I put the enclosure on. 
)
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Haha I used a imperial tape measure. It’s easy to divide fractions in half! 
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Not sure if pnl23 deg plates are available anymore, but i would recommend it.
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