I can ship it to you today by eod if you pay shipping asap
I’ll be getting to Vegas on the 26th
If you’re able to bring it to Vegas I can get it from you there 
Bet hopefully tsa doesn’t give me problems 
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“Oh this? It’s my tube full of strong permanent magnets. What’s it for? My skateboard, obviously!”
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No tsa agent it will not mess with the planes electronics 
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Ive got a pair of reacher 6375 220kv’s im not using? I can either ship em or bring em to vegas with me.
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Nothing Fancy is back up and running 
Thanks @TheSharpergardner @hoytkid @Ac53n for quickly jumping in and offering parts. Ya’ll are great, really appreciate it
I ended up replacing them with a set of SKP 6355 Reachers from @HAIRYMANJACK
He won them at AVS in 2023, and they’ve been sitting on his shelf ever since.
They’re a lot smaller then the old 6384 Apex motors, but I bet they’re about as powerful
Apex motor not-a-rant
As I’ve said before, the old 190kv motors were previously a weakness of the build.
- High iron losses quickly led to overheating if cruising 30+mph. I can’t fault the motor design too much for this, however. These are 12s motors that I was running at 20s. When I was faster then 25~30mph, they were spinning at a higher rpm then they were designed to spin.
- They were sealed motors, so no cooling channels. Great for off-road mountainboarding, not ideal for street riding.
- Crazy ear piecing resonance 25~30mph. Apologies to my group ride friends.
- Generally low efficiency (lackluster range)
The only thing good about them was that I didn’t need to use locktite on the motor pinion.
I don’t (really) regret the decisions to use them on the build in the first place…but I’m very, very excited to have some quality Reachers onto this board instead (even if they are “only” 6355’s)
Drive Reassembly
Drivetrain config
I have both sets of motor pinions for the jump drives, 5.5 and 4.4.
Nothing Fancy does NOT need to go 60mph lmao. Easy choice, sticking with 5.5 it is.
Inspecting the motor pinions, they’ve defininity accumulated wear over the past thousands of miles. Plenty more life in them though
Green has come out, no turning back now. Probably should’ve checked that I cut the shafts short enough to fit in the drives before I did this.
I took this as an opportunity to re-pack the drives with new grease. Check out new grease, next to the old stuff
weeeeeeeeeee
after 6 hours of work, the drives closed up with new motors and grease. Flawless reassembly.
Opening her up to re-wire the D100s
And disconnecting the motors from the D100s.
First time the deck has been free from the enclosure since I built her a year ago. Feels longer!
Had to chop the new motor’s phase wires and solder new connectors.
Did these need to be 5.5mm bullets? Definitely not.
Was it what I had already soldered onto the D100s? I plea the 5th.
Because I love crosslinking
Added hot glue to misc JST (should’ve done this before)
I wanted to add some cosmetic blue overbraid to the phase wires. Love the colors @Skyart, but I prefer blue 
Tried something different this time- before heatshrinking the ends, I put a ring of hot glue under the overbraid. When I heat the heatshink, this re-melts, and is squeezed by the heatshink into the overbraid. Hopefully this prevents the overbraid from sliding out of the heatshrink over time(which is happening
on Ankle Wreacher). I’m pretty optimistic.
Add wiretie, looking good.
Heatshrink the other side
And the two halves have been remated
Do some programming, and we’ve got some wheels spinning babbbyyyyy
80a motor. Was running 90A on the old apex motors
Did some misc cable management, taped the bullets to prevent them from coming apart, —
INTERLUDE
Anyone going to esk8con with a bluetooth module… HIGHLY recommend you disconnect it for the weekend if it’s not password protected. Only takes one person mistakenly connecting to your board and messing with your settings to ruin your weekend. I’ve seen it happen before.
If nothing else… go into your vesc app and check the “preferred” toggle. Will help prevent you from doing that to someone else’s board when you’re surrounded by 100s of vesc bluetooth modules
Do it or Huey disapproves
Almost forgot to remove mine
(also it’s redundant because of the new Megan)
–and sealed her up. Ready for the con! Woot Woot.
Haven’t ridden yet, waiting for when I’ll be in full safety gear. Doesn’t hurt to be careful with a new board setup (pun intended)
It’ll happen sunday, at the dam. If you’re in Socal, come out and race! More people means more Chaos 
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About the Bluetooth module, Minnie/Megan should be fine right? Since they’re connected by pairing with a password instead of an open channel.
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Should be, yeah. One of my favorite features of the Minnie/Megan, and why I always recommend it to friends over a MakerX module (or similar)
At minimum, Minnie/Megan are resistant to accidental tampering. If someone had malicious intent, less so? They’d be able to connect to your Minnie if they knew the code printed on it (so it’s good to be careful of public pictures you post that might leak it). a Megan requires a button press and has a new password every time, so they’d need physical access to your board to connect. At which point you would’ve already lost haha.
Not that I think there’s anyone malicious that’s going to be at the con, just interesting to think about
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Good to know, just double checking since I never had any issues with that since last PDX and carveSEA. Also, do you over heat your APEX motor rl fast? Mine would overheat in minutes if I ride normally, have to tone it down until I get Reachers.
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He mentioned this in the post
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Sorry bud boards cool and all but Huey was the best part 
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I was guessing this is why mine overheat so fast.
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According to Mxlemming you want to stay at around 60k erpms, after that iron losses get huge . High kv low pole motors like inrunners are better for esk8 racing
Dont they make adhesive lined heatshrink? Could just try that haha.
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