My kegels wouldnāt fit on well, but just tried with my Caguamas and you are right, they do fit snuggly and with just the right amount of force. Fine, Iāll go to the store tomorrow and try to find a 5.5mm drill bitā¦
@BenjaminF You wouldnāt happen to have such a drill bit at your place or Andrewās, would you? That I could borrow on Friday for a few seconds
Do you have a plan for carrying the board on the plane, is it going as sports goods with the nese modules in carryon or is the whole board coming in the cabin or what? Iāve only looked at 1 or 2 European airlinesā terms of service but 1 of them (I think Ryanair, so not applicable for crossing the Atlantic) will not tea any PEV under any circumstances, even with the battery removed
I bought a large Trampa bag for it. Oversized, but hopefully worth it. Will share pictures and my experience soon Iāve flown with batteries before, shouldnāt be too big of a deal; although I will print some āstickersā stating the Wh of each moduleā¦
Yeah the batteries in hand luggage seems mostly fine (@mutantbass said itās no hassle at all I think), itās more the board itself I was thinking of. Iāll have to try looking into less crappy airlines than Ryanair then
I think all of the flights I took my 1st electric skateboard with were Ryanair, lol. If the battery is missing itās just a skateboard with some electronics in the checked luggageā¦
I might, yeah. When are you getting in on Friday? I am going to every event on the schedule, so I wont be home for most of the day. Hit me up on Telegram and we can try to work something out.
Bought the 5.5mm drill bit. 20 minutes of drilling per wheel later, they seem to go on alright. (Still a massive pain to take off though.) I flipped the front hanger to have negative rake, and got proper length bolts for the front. Board sits practically level now, nice.
Biggest time sink was finishing all the wiring. Will share pretty pictures of it later.
To hold the NESE modules in place Iām using Velcro. 2 pieces per module, then I put the whole thing in.
Unfortunately, one gear drive was making bit of a light scratching sound. Maybe the bearings? After hammering the wheel a bit to get it to sit more straight, it seems to have gone away. Although now I can hear a bit of squeeling from the v-ring. Looks like I should have added more grease than I already did. So I need to take the wheel off. Ugh.
Tomorrow morning will clean up the wiring a bit, sleeve the motor wires, and go for a test rideā¦ except itās pouring rain for the next few days. Which means my first real ride with this board might be in Portland, lol.
Hammered the wheel off, used a more powerful drill to bore the holes even wider. Much better now. Added grease to the v-ring, only for the other wheel to start squeeking a little bit. Iāll do that one later.
I cut holes in my gasket for routing the wires, leaving a minimal amount of rubber below and above for protection. Iāll sleeve the wires later, once I replace the ESC with a 60D+. I canāt use my Davega either at the moment due to only 1 working UART port, lol.
Then I taped up the phase wires with fiberglass tape. This not only acts as insulation so that the exposed contacts never short, but also keeps the bullets locked together.
Iām still uncertain if the scratching sound from the gear drives Iām hearing is expected or not. Could anyone with experience have a listen and let me know? @EreTroN@3DServisas
The only thing I placed between the wheel bearings and the wheel pulley/gear is the provided aluminum step-down spacer. I donāt need an additional speed-ring there, do I? Then Iāll hardly have any more axle for engaging the nylon part of the lock-nut at the endā¦
Maybe itās because my backlash is too loose? Itās not more than a millimeter of playā¦
What you are facing in the video at first is VESC being VESC at slow speed stopping, motors do that ākrrrrā from time to time at low speed with all builds I have.
This was the first thing that came to my mind because it sounds like rubbing and that could be wheel off of stationary part of the drive. Do you have pictures from parallel to the board/road, so we could see where the wheel meets the drive?
And used a low dead-band setting to maximize the throttle range. Still using 0.1s positive & negative ramping times, because I prefer a responsive remote that will quickly go back to what I want if I fuck up. With this throttle curve the board feels very tame & safe when doing small adjustments.
Anyway, I swapped the 93A bushings in the rear with the 90A Riptide bushings I had in the front (fatcone and barrel), and in the front I ended up using a stock surf rodz medium barrel and a stock caliber medium cone, put on the wrong way. As I mentioned earlier, these FatBoy Surf rodz hangers donāt have wide enough of a bushing seat, so they pivot on the edges of the bushing unless you really crank it down. Iām definitely not 100% satisfied with the front yet, but at least I can turn enough now.
One of the plastic guards for the drives fell off. Despite me using blue loctite on those boltsā¦ Shit. I just went out and retraced my route with a flash-light, but couldnāt find it
Could print you some new ones. Also you need to use some washers, otherwise big rips will stretch the TPU around the bolt and rip it completely off (donāt ask how I know ). Unless you returned without the bolts either. Low profile urethane requires sacrificeā¢.
1 bolt missing, the other looseā¦ Yep, definitely adding washers next time
Maybe Iāll get someone in the US to print it for me so that I can use it sooner. Might not need it if the drive gets totally banged up in a few days lol