they always want 100$ from me
Day 5
Day 4 I took off to visit some relatives.
The new inserts work great, I can manage to get all the bolts to start threading in.
But as you can see, it wasnāt good enough. So I marked which way I need to make the enclosure holes larger, and widened them by just drilling on repeat. Bad for water and dust ingress, but I care more about being able to easily put the enclosure on and off when traveling.
After 2 goes, all the bolts now nicely meet the inserts 
I also painted the rails today!
I bought this dark blue wood stain from Amazon for a pretty penny, because for the life of me I couldnāt find blue paint anywhere else online.
I did a test on a small piece of wood, and noticed that on one side the stain wouldnāt soak in, and instead left a small layer that combined with the bright yellowish wood showed up green. Since my board is blue and green, I didnāt see this as an issue, and went on painting. Despite sanding the edges clean, this is exactly what happened ā wherever there wasnāt enough paint, the dark blue would show up green! Itās almost as if this paint was meant specifically for my deckās artwork 
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the bolt is longer than the insert, so the end of it sits flush with the insert.
Just a small spanner will be enough. The combination of spanner and the screwdriver will be enough
@EboardSolutions came in with the clutch 3 day shipping FTW
Iām not sure how safe running a BMS to its limits is, but here goes nothing! Canāt wait for the weekend to put everything together and ride this thing
I also saw @glyphiks ordered the same charge connector as Iām using, the Weipu SF2. I didnāt know they had a version without the rectangular plate, which Iām not making use of. Note that the charge port is finicky to lock together, so Iād only recommend it if youāre missing space for a larger, better one.
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Mine seem to lock together pretty easily, definitely requires firm pressure, but that makes me feel good that itās a nice tight connection.
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As someone from the world of audio, it baffles me how dinky are some of the power connectors on esk8ās. A 3pin XLR is reasonably cheap, abundant, locks and can be fitted with nice covers. But oh noesā¦ thatās what the EUC crowd uses.
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Because theyāre huuuuge lengthwise. I think. If you have a link to a small one, Iād love to check it out!
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Hmmā¦ Canāt seem to find much below 20mm.
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Mine are kinda finicky and lose contact at certain angles. We donāt really think about eucs much here
Actually at the same 20mm inner depth, the Neutrik Speakon would be perfect. If 20mm is something we can afford. I will add that 30A current capability is something that only certain boards would appreciate.
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They look cool, but there doeanāt seem to be an option with a cover. Also, the bulk of the connector is inside the board, it took me a while to come around, but i kinda like the connectors with the bulk on the outside. Every sq cm on the inside of an enclosure counts.
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Yeah, inside volume is expensive, I get that. Maybe itās less of a problem for bigger builds where these high current connectors make more sense?
Btw, here are the covers.
This seems perfect to lose, even if the fit is pretty decent.
This is better, but fits only heavier duty chassis mount inlets.
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Day 9, part 1
First thing to do today is assemble the drive-train, so that the threadlocker can cure. But before that, I wanted to mount the trucks to the deck to double-check I wonāt get wheel-bite.
Both my Surf-Rodz baseplate, and my Bowery-Surf adjustable baseplate (Thank you @Venom121212 ) had their holes too wide! I couldnāt bolt them to my deck, nor my Davega baseplate. So after drilling the holes wider with a 5mm drill-bit I finally got them to fit. Not super straight, but better than them wobbling side-to-side, so Iām going to leave it.
I think Iām running 40 degrees in the back, and 50 up front. The front sits a bit higher though, so maybe itās more like 38 and 52. Anyhow, since these hangers have rake (3mm I believe), I might flip the front hanger to have negative rake, and then the board should be level.
I also noticed that these FatBoy hangers have a slightly narrower bushing seat compared to original Surf Rodz, so my bushings donāt sit entirely flat unless theyāre cranked down. I have some surf-keys, that Iāll compare with and without once the board is rideable.
Also, in the back Iām using these cheap deck protector plates I bought at Sickboards.
Anyway, I stood on the board to check for wheel-bite, and it looks like I could even upgrade to 120mm wheels safely! So I might try Onsra wheels in the future. I also think people who wanted to replicate this setup could get away with 240mm FatBoy Surf Rodz hangers, although you would have to forward-mount your motors then.
Speaking of, I assembled the drivetrain. Red loctite on everything, except for green on the motor shaft. Once the threadlocker is cured tomorrow I will apply grease and close them up. Having to adjust backlash is annoying, but overall it took me less than 2h to assemble them.
Notice how if it werenāt for the hanger rake, these motors would not fit! They donāt fit reverse-mounted at any other angle, so I got really lucky. Of course, forward mounted you could probably do 100mm motors or something stupid. But for a street build this should be just fine
Alright, time to do the internal wiring nowā¦
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That looks super nice!
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Day 9, part 2
Laid out the BMS and charge port in the enclosure. I think this is the wiring plan I will go for:
I then soldered the correct connector for my charger. I put in an XT-60 in the middle so that I could easily switch connectors for other boards. This is also useful in case my charger were to die, and I needed to borrow someone elseās. I feel like everyone has XT-60s, so using it as a universal connector to increase compatibility is a great idea, and Iāll be adding one for all of my chargers going forward.
(The green tape is so that I can quickly recognize the charger is 12s. I have blue tape on my 10s chargers, and red on my 16s one)
I also spent a while rearranging cells in my NESE modules so that they would all face the same orientation. All that remains is soldering on the balance lead lugs and the charge circuit, but I will do that tomorrow. Meeting up with some friends early tomorrow, so want to get a good nightās sleep. Besides, once I grease up the drives I need to put on the covers and add blue threadlocker to the housing bolts, so I have to wait for that to cure.
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Day 10, part 1
Greased up the drives, and closed them up, using blue threadlocker for the small outside bolts
I then started putting the wheels on, but they got stuck and wouldnāt go down completely. I remember seeing a boa wheel broken in half once when someone couldnāt get their FatBoy pulley off, so I decided Iād better get the wheels off instead of persisting. Some M5 bolts, a block of wood and a mallet later, I managed to get the wheels off 
Wondering now what I should do. Iām leaning towards making the kegel prongs of the gear drive thinner, because I want to be able to easily swap wheels. Rather than boring the wheel holes larger. Now: do I use sandpaper, or my dremel? 
Going to have to tape the drives up so that metal shavings donāt fly into them or the motors 
Part 2
Soldered the fuse and charge port lugs. Extended some of the balance wires. Just need lugs for those and will be done. Tomorrow. Iām sleepy 
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Why not drill wheels holes a bit wider? I wouldnāt touch gear drive adapters if I donāt have to.
I have 0 issues taking on and off TB 110 from same gear drive.
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I want to use my green wheels when I arrive in the US asap, and donāt want to drill them there on the spot. And I donāt see an issue with narrower prongs; worst case you can put tape around them to make them thicker if need be.
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Fuck boas small holes.
Iād drill them in case you switch wheels in the future. Iām sure someone will have a drill for ya @Carve
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But itās boas that have wrong diameter, not gear drive.
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