how else can I prove to the city council how much shittier our roads are than described in their community improvement plan? i’m willing to sacrifice a clone camera; most folks spend a lot more on attorneys and lobbyists to get their way at public hearings
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Alright, fair enough. I’d say 3d printed is the easiest way but idk what you have access to…
@drone001 the formulas in BLDC are:
Motor RPM / KV = BEMF V
((Batt V * Duty %) - BEMF V) / OHMs Winding Resistance = Motor Current
(Batt V * Duty%) * Motor Current = Electrical Wattage
Electrical Wattage / Batt V = Battery Current
(60 / (2 * pi * KV)) * Motor Current = Motor Torque Newton Meters
Motor Torque * Gear Reduction Ratio = Wheel Torque
Wheel Torque / Wheel Radius in Meters = Wheel Thrust in Newtons
^once the board is built, it can be shown that the wheel thrust depends entirely on the chosen duty cycle
*edit: fixed a couple typos
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I don’t have access to a 3D printer. if i did, i don’t know if PLA would hold up. i might resort to buying @Boardnamics motor mount and screwing the go pro mount into one of the motor mount slots. I’m hoping money can buy me a cleaner solution than that. i really appreciate your brainstorming
Hmm… My only other idea would be to utilize the screws in the front of the truck or perhaps a modified axle or something… Honestly underside of deck would probably be easiest (though less ideal)
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Trying to test a charge port before plugging it into my battery…I get weird reading am I doing something wrong I was expecting 50.4V on the miltimeter
I get 50.4 directly from charger. Also tested working charge port…got the same weird reading. Picture shows 0.00 cause charger is not plugged into the wall socket.
What reading do you get from the charger, 12s should be 50.4 and 10s should be 42.0v
Yes 50.4 from charger
Sorry I think im misunderstanding, whats the problem.
When I plug the charger into a charge port ( not connected to battery) and probe the charge port…I get weird readings
Just a tip worth knowing:
This setting is continuity. It basically just beeps at you or gives you a yes / no for if it gets a full circuit connection. On your unplugged charge port, this is a great test to make sure you didn’t short anything
I.e. No continuity when pack is unplugged
What readings do you get when it’s plugged into the charger?
Also make sure you have the right range set on the voltage reading.
Checked for cold solder joints or maybe a partially ripped wire?
Edit: what @BluPenguin said is very possible, I messed that one up for my AC-DC adapter this week.
Is your charge port the same pin size as the charger? It could be your charger is 5.5x2.5 and your charge port is 5.5x2.1 (or something like that etc)
so with the charger plugged into the wall and the multimeter hooked up to the charge port like it is in the picture i should be testing for continuity?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S5ZLFDG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
charge port
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9VHY8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD4J5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Did you try another charge plug? Those metal unibody ones have higher chance of internal shorts. If the charger puts out perfect voltage before it’s pushed into a charge plug, it could mean the charge plug is shorting it and the charger is going into failsafe. If this is not the case, look into the charger side plug and check to make sure the spring pins are slightly protruding to make good contact with the pin
Ayyyyyy, make sure you fuse that charge port because the 5.5x2.1 are probably the most likely connector to short.
