Does the remote actually move the motors? Is it just battery or does nothing work?
I used the PWM connector to test if the remote itself was working, and it managed to register in the focbox tool. No luck on UART throttle though.
EDIT: I found an old thread on the forum that shall not be named saying that the UART only works on benchwheel boards… So fuck me I guess?
Ah crap. Me think benchwheel meant PWM works with focbox but uart for their stuff only. Give the VX2 pro a shot maybe, I like it so far with unity.
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I’ve heard good things, but part of me deeply needs the finger hole… Idk why 
Got a 3D printer? lol
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Not my own, but there’s a Stratasys on campus that I have access to…
Cue plotting, scheming, malicious laughter, etc
I have a half finished project of making a print friendly shell for vx2. Their shell has too many tiny floating hooks that doesn’t print strong enough. I can probably get that finished up since as of yesterday I have 0 working boards lol. Could add a finger hole just for you.
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If you do, send me an STL and I’ll try printing it…
We’ll see about the vx2 depending on cost
I could be totally wrong as I’ve never had either one, but I had the impression that the battery meter on the benchwheel remote only worked on a Benchwheel brand prebuilt esk8
could be wrong though
You sure this is supported?
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maybe not 
with these motors i get a noticable but not loud high pitched static noise when engaging the thumbwheel slightly in either direction (where there is no noticable acceleration or braking actually happening)
performance wise i cant really tell if anything is wrong, acceleration is strong, but only ever so slightly stronger than the 6355 i ran before, and the power delivery is symetrical on both wheels
its a new phenomenon to me, is there actually something wrong or is that normal considering im running the same settings as before, just differend motors?
Thanks everyone for chiming in. By no mean i want to blame anyone except myself… but i received 2 new escs (flipsky 4.12, very cheap), connected them in series to get power from the battery… all well, motor detection done on both escs, all perfect. Bad news is that i’ve tried to connect them with the Canbus cable (actually i did it myself, just 2 cables going from Can H to Can L from esc A to esc B, as per instructions above) and guess? both escs are now bricked. fried, dead. I know its my fault but i don’t understand what i did wrong and i dont feel comfortable doing the canbus again after this experience. Shit, wasting money this way is soooo frustrating. i bought the escs on amazon and ill try to return these and buy 2 new ones. question is: how will i connect them in a safe way (read: without bricking these too) ? is another remote receiver a solution here? i just want to avoid canbus after yesterday. thanks everyone for your help
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Wait, can you post a picture of how you hooked them up?
Can H on vesc A goes to can H on vesc B. Can L on vesc A goes to can L on vesc B. You do not swap them.
Also,
WHAT? NoNoNo, you do not connect vescs in series. Either you’re doing it wrong, or you’re doing it right and saying it wrong.
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That’s what had me asking for the photo.
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Not right now, i forgot to take pictures and now im at work… is there something i may have missed in the way it should hooked up? it seemed so straight forward that i may have overlooked something…
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I’ll put it this way: were they hooked up so the battery went to a parallel connector like one of these and each vesc was fed by one of the forked connectors?
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No, but i now see what i did wrong (series connection betweent the esc instead than parallel). SHIT… I should have hooked them up in parallel, right?
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Yes. There’s your problem.
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I wish i had asked this yesterday… is there’ anything i can do to resuscitate the 2 escs after connecting them (wrongly) in series?
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