Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Then it will work perfectly

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I feel like those are really high inductance and resistance measurementsā€¦ I know every system is different but here are mine for example:

The first unity I had gave me mismatched flux linkage measurements and it caused a weird stuttering for me. Jeff said it was a badly soldered resistor and had me send it to Bara. All fixed with no issue now.

Any other vesc users want to chime in on their motor measurements?

SHOW ME YOUR OHMS AND HENRYS!

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I havenā€™t mounted that thing, but in general the regular tall hex cap are better because the hex is bigger and wonā€™t strip as easily.

There is a thread specifically for this on the VESC forum (so the motors can be added to the database which helps everyone) but I canā€™t find it and the VESC forum SUCKS. Yeah, Iā€™m gonna say it. Please use discourseā€¦

@Trampa do you have a link to that thread?

Or maybe someone just make a thread here and they can copy the information over :smirk:

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Are there any good reliable all terrain hub motors for sale anywhere? wowgo used to sell a AT hub motor upgrade kit but they donā€™t have it anymore. Something like that would be perfect for me.

The best hub motors are the Hummie hubs but they are California polyurethane.

Why not use a belt drive?

Im a real newby im trying to come up with a blueprint for a cheap and sleek, AT board. im looking to spend around 650 for everything.

This is the closest thing, but itā€™s not really AT and no one I know has tried them.

At that budget plus a hair more, you could also get something like this:

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Yeah building a budget AT probably just isnā€™t the greatest idea. Personally I probably wouldnā€™t build an exclusive AT for less than 2k. You could get a decent street board for that amount though

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@ShutterShock I know , im not really looking for a top of the line AT board to take me into the jungle, I just want a board for city streets that will be suber smooth over bad roads or potholes.
originally I was going to buy the wowgo AT hub motors which can be seen on there AT board, they were offering 270 for wheels/motors, esc, and remote, which was an amazing deal. pity that its discontinued :frowning_face:

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Ah gotcha. Well you could check out the meepo city rider like Bill suggested, or you could take a stab at something like the Backfire Ranger (slightly higher price point). Have heard good things about that.

The reality is if you try to do a cheap drive system like (very bad example) the diyeboard AT drive, it will probably just end up breaking and youā€™ll spend more money anyway.

The DIY route, you will want good batteries, expensive. The drive system is expensive, the wheels arenā€™t too bad, speed controller(s) can be budget but I donā€™t know if it is possible for $650 for a trustworthy board.

My advice is save some more money and do a lot more reading on here and maybe pick up some deals from people on here selling things if you wanna do DIY

In the process of gutting my dead boosted, Iā€™ve found myself stuck disconnecting the power wires from the battery.

Here are two photos showing the wires:

Can anyone give me some instructions on how to safely disconnect the battery from the board?

Are you trying to preserve the wires? I donā€™t see any reason why you canā€™t just cut them, one at a time obviously.

I havenā€™t disassembled a boosted before, so it is possible that there is a connector in there somewhere but we canā€™t tell from these photos

Arenā€™t boosted batteries swappable on the board?

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Is that how that works? :joy: I really have no clue. Do I need special scissors or something?

I want to preserve the wires to make an xt90 connection for a new battery pack

Not for the v1

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Oh haha yeah usually you want to use wire cutters for something like that, it will ruin your scissors if they arenā€™t strong enough.

Gotcha.

If you want to use the battery for something else you could cut the wires inbetween the board and the battery, so you have enough room to solder onto the board side, or if you donā€™t care about this battery, you could cut them right smack up against the battery but it would make it pretty useless if you were to try and sell it or something.

Do you understand what Iā€™m getting at?

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This battery is toast, although the BMS seems fine šŸ¤·

So to be super clear, any regular scissor (granted itā€™s strong enough to cut the wire) will work?

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Not necessarily, I had those hubs and I can say they are pretty bad. The wiring in the hub is horrible and they overheat, thatā€™s probably why they discontinued them

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Okay I see. Could be a dead cell or something who knows.

Shears could work, like thicc ones. I would personally use wire cutters because I have them. Scissors is pushing it. They may get dulled in the spot that you cut with and it might be difficult, just make sure you only cut one wire at a time. Depends on how good the scissors are too.

It really depends on how hard the wire is, if it was soft silicon wire, might be easier. Hard chinese quality wire would be waaay harder, probably not possible with scissors. At this AWG anyway, looks like 10 or 12. Obviously something like 20 or 22 would be easy to cut with scissors.

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Thanks for the advice, they seem to be slightly thinner than 10awg (is there an 11awg? Lol), which my scissors cut with only a little difficulty

Iā€™m gonna wear a rubber cooking mit or somethingā€¦ Im a little paranoid about shocking myself if you canā€™t tell :sob::sweat_smile:

E: Does it matter which I cut first? Negative vs Positive?