No idea why this detail would be included but just sounds like battery voltage measurement is just + or - .6V from reality (if it reports 40.0V it is between 39.4V and 40.6V is how that reads to me, think ordinarily more accurate but should be worst case based on percentage tolerance on parts).
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Yeah, it’s just saying that the voltage measurement isn’t perfect and that if you need a reading to be guaranteed to be closer than that, you have to use some other method, like a multimeter, etc.
It can be an issue if, for example, it’s reading high and you’ve got your vesc cutoffs set very close to your BMS cutoffs - They may look farther apart according to the vesc’s monitoring than they actually are, which could in theory lead to your BMS cutting out on you unexpectedly, for example.
Just about anything that measures anything will have a similar accuracy listing. For example my multimeter’s DC volts range has a stated accuracy of +/- 2.5%, plus 3 least significant digits.
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This is easy. I’ve been taking Superfly off my boards and putting TB110 on them. I wouldn’t do that if they weren’t better 
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Is there a good way to weld nickel to nickel without a cell underneath? No5 having good luck with it
Love that idea. However I dont have the tools/materials/skills in my woodshop to make that 
Edit: could I take an aluminum “stick” from the hardware store and use that?
And if so how could I tell it is perfectly flat and level to make contact?
I use a piece of alunimium underneath the 2 nickel strips.
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Does this look like an acceptable soldering technique? Going to be soldering an extension cable for my phase wires and it’s my first time soldering 
It’s totally fine. Fill up the cup and tin the stripped wire and put the wire then in the cup. I had it done with a third hand.
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Is this the Bestech D140 that is charge only?
https://www.litechpower.com/product-detail/HCX-D140LI12S15A_05.html
Because this one also has discharge, in another listing on their site - https://www.litechpower.com/product-detail/HCX-D140LI12S15A.html
Just confirming the first one is discharge bypass so I am sure I buy the right one 
thanks
What can I do to amplify the signal of the antenna on a meepo v1 esc? Other than leave outside of the box? Could I add an extra cable the the soldering point of the original?
Signal amplification is a function of signal frequency, strength, and antenna length.
It can be done, it can also be f’d up. Do your research before if you try it!
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That’s a bummer. Since I painted the board yesterday, signal is faint. I can ride with the remote in my right hand but can’t ride with it in my left hand without losing signal from time to time. Noticed when I got at a red light…
Full battery on remote?
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No but that has never been a problem… that would certainly be a troubleshooting solution. I’ll charge it up and try again.
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Eliminate one variable at a time… Carefully
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Yeah, that’s what I’d use - something like 1" wide by 1/8" or 1/4" thick. Most of those aluminum extrusions are very flat.
Just make sure the aluminum is in contact with the thermal pad everywhere the heatsink is currently, to make sure there are no components that aren’t getting cooled. Use some heatsink compound (thermal grease) between the aluminum and the heatsink, and you should be alright.
Its gonna be a lot of math to get the hole and aluminum to be perfect…if I go that route, it will look cooler while actually being cooler. My other option was a 5v fan inside the case
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Would this soldering iron be sufficient enough for eskate purposes? I am gonna be soldering 8 AWG/10AWG