So should I drill those holes accordingly to the size of my escās wire? Because I do have 5.5mm bullet holes connector on my ESC, and they are way larger than my wires. So do I need to un-solder and solder the wires back again to my ESC to have everything flush with the enclosure?
Sorry not sure Iām understanding entirely maybe some pictures of current setup would help. In my case the phase wires coming from the ESC go out of the box and have bullet connectors to hook up to the motor outside the enclosure (this way can disconnect the enclosure/ESC from the motor externally if I need to take things off for testing or cleaning or whatever.
Yeah thatās what I was going to do, but the thing is the diameter of my 5.5 bullet point connector is larger than the wire itself, so if I drill holes in the enclosure to make the 5.5 pass, the holeās diameter will be a lot larger than the diameter of my wires.
So I was wondering if I should drill the holes to the size of my wires, and solder them back on the esc (already inside the enclosure). Thatās why I was looking for those grommets.
Maybe this is a really dumb question, but I want to avoid water damage at all cost.
oh right 
in my case there is one half the cut out for the wire on half the enclosure and other half on other side so when I screw it down the wire is trapped, in your case I would probably opt for taking off and putting back on the bullet connectors rather than the connections on the ESC just to avoid damaging things in there, but yah would target roughly the size of the wire itself if youāre going to forgo the grommets but just make sure the wire is secured inside so the hole doesnāt end up rubbing the insulation on the phase wires off.
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Iāll see what I can find tomorrow, but I donāt think the remote is the issue (see below)
Done 
I think itās something like this. My visual inspection didnāt find anything, but that does not say much. I noticed this issue was only on one of the two motors, so I swapped the phase wires around. After recallibration the issue appeared on the other motor, indicating itās got nothing to do with the motors themself. I also donāt think this is caused by the remote, as I donāt see how the remote can cause these weird symptoms, even deliberately.
Open up a thread on the other forum and tag Carl, Adrian, Bara, and Jeff. Itāll get taken care of. Or just post on the unity support thread. Up to you hehe
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Whatās up with my left side motor? Passes the broken magnet test. Is possibly just a loose one and rattling and resonating at certain RPM?
Sealed Eskating 6374 190kv (Rebranded Maytechs, iirc)
The enertion customer support forum?
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Can I change motor detection via Bluetooth? I can change amp limits and stuff but I think thatās all
- fsesc dual 6.6 plus, metr pro 1.0, iPhone, metr app
Yeah can use the TCP Bridge option then can connect from desktop app if on the same network as a phone connected over bluetooth (goes computer->network->phone->bluetooth->VESC), or if your computer has bluetooth desktop app can connect directly over bluetooth I believe.
Just hit the TCP Bridge button then see IP it pops up with, use that in connection on desktop app.
Edit Have only done this on Android actually not entirely sure the feature is possible/enabled on iPhone, but works for meā¢
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How would one make a flipsky6.6 dual hold in the top of a case while having the heatsink on the outside? I only have one shot at this and donāt wanna mess up
Use the bolts that hold the PCB to the heat sink to bolt throught the enclosure, and bore a hole in the center of it. The metal should be exposed but secure. Ideally get some silicone or a rubber o-ring so it doesnāt get wet
Not sure i get what youāre saying I should do
Replace the bolts that hold the PCB and heat sink together with something longer, make that same bolt go through the top of the enclosure, and cut a hole above it so the metal can be seen through the hole
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Ohā¦ in that case, itās you who doesnāt get exactly what I want to do
I want the esc on the inside
But I want the hest sink to be on the outside
(Using dead esc heatsink to show)
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Make some aluminum spacer blocks to go between the heatsink and the PCB, and make holes for the spacers to poke through your enclosure.
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No hate on ABEC 107s, but 110 all the way.
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Done brought!
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