Would the 80w version suffice?
@Resonant It should, yes. I was recommended by my teacher when I studied for my associateās degree to get my hands on 60w and to make sure it has adjustability. More importantly, whichever you choose, make sure the tips are easy to find and replace. I made that mistake multiple times 
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Is there an issue (meaning they wonāt work without flashing new FW) with the (old) BT modules used with Ackmaniac and Android 9 or is this only with the metr modules? 
@Resonant @Flasher
I highly recommend soldering irons with integrated tip-and-heater, such as this one. Tips are a little more expensive than just solid chunks of metal like the others are, but the performance is absolutely worth it - they heat up faster, and can supply more heat to stubborn joints.
Other good options are the TS100 or TS80 portable soldering irons.
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Thatās a good option but Iāll stick to my xtronic
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I need to drain some individual cells since one p-group is at 4.16V and the rest are at 4.13V. Thatās too much for BMS balancing, no? What can I use to drain it down? I tried using a standard lightbulb but it doesnāt turn on even a little bit. I bet the voltage is much too low but does current still flow to it? Thanks a bunch!
Edit: I found a 6v bulb in an old flashlight and itās working!
No imbalance is too far for your BMS, assuming youāre patient enough. Larger imbalances and larger capacities take longer.
You can use a resistor or some nichrome wire. Calculate its value based on the current draw you want, using the formula I=V/R, where I is your desired current and V is your cell voltage.
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Looking to see if anyone knows where I can get a 72T pulley 20mm wide to fit the MBS rims.
Also, if anyone knows of anyone who can 3D print the pulley below.
thank you.
do yourself a favour and upgrade it to the latest version. Its a hobbywing esc and is head and shoulders above the notchy old one. Its cheap as chips and comes with everything. New enclosure, new remote, battery meter and switch all built for you and some connectors to adapt the old bullets.
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Itās only my commuter. I might even stop using it altogether once my trampa is finished. So just to make the parts work as long as they can
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I keep a meep. Its always there for when something goes tits up. Something always goes tits up.
I grabbed a second v1 in case trampa has a problem and that, in a raging fury, something happens to my commuter XD
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I did the same upgrade for my back-up Meepo. Agree with all points.
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Single motors go under the back heel, right?
Yup generally how Iāve seen it done and how I ride myself, this way a bit easy to be sure some weight is planted onto the wheel (so you arenāt just spinning out in the air). There is some pull to the side but I only notice it if braking hard for the most part, which I try to avoid.
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So riding goofy means a āright sideā mount?
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Yupā¦ I had a feeling this was going to be some sort of trick question 
but would still keep motor under the heel side I think just less likely to be spinning out, took some conscious effort at first to make sure I was always planted when accelerating or braking but pretty second nature now.
No tricks here, just buying a mount from BKB and Iām actually brain dead, Iāve been up all night last night and doing work during the day so brain is mush. Iāll buy mounting hardware way farther down the line but I canāt without knowing the height of the riser Iāll need because fixed mounts
Did your sensors work after the upgrade? Mine didnāt, I usually disconnect them anyway but thought why not for once and they shuddered all over the place. Thinking maybe a different pin out on the cabling. Its a bit punchier without them anyway and never had a cog incident at all.
My koowheel motors have been running senseless ever since I changed the esc. Oinout was different and wrong size just so never bothered. Big kicks but no cogs
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