Awesome thanks man, I was searching with the wrong terms
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Has anyone ever tried to use some thick, adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing as actual enclosure for the under-deck(flexible trampa) battery pack?
I’m thinking of making 3s3p groups of batteries and connect them in series inside the enclosure for airplane travel, but first i want to know, if i use both contacts of a xt30 connector, can it theoretically carry 60A?
Looking to build a diy belt driven board for around $400, I already have a 10s3p battery, any recommendations? I would like to hit atleast 25 mph, my last board I accidentally sent into the depths of the ocean and I miss it, if I build a new one quick enough maybe I wont think about it.
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Got you. Level matched with .builders and good to see you here with us!
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Welcome, Derrick. I bumped your account so you can message and post freely. We’ve recently started a budget build thread which may be of some help:
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I had the f1s and they were OK for street riding and light offroad. The f5s are so much worth the money I cant even stress it enough. I bought them the day after I tried them at the track and threw them on my board before a race I loved them so much.
Start off without the heelstraps and buy them later on. Makes the price a bit better. Buy nice or buy twice is tough but true.
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In theory? Probably? I guess?
I’d just use some 5.5 or 6mm bullet connectors - Nearly as compact as an XT30, and far more beefy.
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Pros:
- You can run looser belts, for lower rolling resistance and potentially less noise.
- More belt teeth engaged with the motor pulley means less slippage, which means looser belts - See above.
Cons:
- They’re more expensive…? Sometimes? Maybe?
- You have to buy longer belts.
- They can sometimes be a little more difficult to adjust for proper belt tracking, I guess?
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They also flex the belt backwards, which some belt construction does not like that…
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Thanks! I will check that thread out!
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Make an MP4 file or similar non-vendorlocked video file and simply drag it into the box where you type.
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icloud mate
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Never try to understand the Kookinator. He is an enema wrapped in a burrito. Though he may be trying to point out that, awesome attempt to help aside, you might need to do more learning before jumping in and teaching.
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Wood insert question:
I stripped the internal threads on one irreparably. Anyone got tips on the best way to get this out without cracking the deck, and leaving the hole able to accept a new insert? I JB welded it in…
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I’m not answering on stuff I have no idea about. This was about simple physics. I don’t know about kook, but one of my main subject is physic. If he has more knowledge on that topic i invite him to answer questions about that and I’ll keep my mouth shut. As to his “writing style” I don’t get what is achieved by being so toxic.
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You could try cutting a slot into it but I bet jb weld would still win that fight. I think your best bet is to remove the entire plug, including the insert with a hole saw bit and drilling it out. Then fill with epoxy, wood glue, or several layers or jb weld and retap it.
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That is not strictly true there brother. There have been a few instances of advice given with little to no experience. While this can be seen as helpful it can also be potentially damaging. Bear in mind that this thread is for guys who literally have no idea what can cause issues and what to avoid so unless you are fully experienced with the issue at hand then try to read and learn without offering advice that could be misconstrued.
Back in the day I once advised a guy to re detect a potentially shorted motor. Had one of the more experienced guys not stepped in then the recipient of my crap advice would have had a blown esc to go with his broken motor.
Just be aware of the damage you can do with a few clicks of the keyboard.
ps take no notice of @kook. He is our resident nutcase 
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I’ll watch out for that and learn more before telling people what to do 
Thanks for your polite expression!
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