With the 1850 Watt motor and the pulley system, I donāt think Iāll hit 40kmh right?
Iām not planning on hitting topspeeds, but I get your point about the solid baseā¦
1 Like
enter your stats here and check it outā¦
oops and i also allways forget there is a built-in one in the forum
1 Like
also look at this. Thats a screenshot from just a sec ago.
I was going 43km/h on my mtb and all it took were
24 Amps from my battery (battery is able to push 80 amps)
My motors only needed about 20Amps each to hold that speed.
Keep in mind that getting there is more taxing but after that it is really efficient. No where near the limits.
I weigh about 100kg with 8kg on my back.
I guess I wonāt find the motor efficiency etcā¦ But thatās okay
Itāll be fine I guess
Thanks for the inspiration!
Interested in reviews of the makerx dual
If anyone has anything to Say please tell me
I am wanting to use it with 30amps a side @12s without pushing it to hard
I need something reliable though
The types of motors we use are generally 90% efficient so just leave that.
Search for battery indicator on this forum:
so the ESC iām getting is the Neobox V4, which is a clone of the Focbox Unity, except itās not a dual system, but 2 seperate ones, amounting to 160A continuous in totalā¦so if im running a battery that can output 100A, then I can use all of that power and just split it over the 2 neoboxs at 50A eachā¦just thinking out loud here. thanks for the help
1 Like
Thank you so much
I think 30kmh would be a good speed for me - not too fast but not boring neither. My weight is around 60kg, the gear ratio is 3:1 so 20 Teeth for the Motor and 60 for the wheel. Motor Power is 1850 Watt
Is that fine for acceleration?
why is it acceptable for the neobox to have the phase leads soldered on? I though soldering components together on an esk8 was a bad idea because vibrations jiggle things loose - which is why people spot-weld battery packs rather than solder them. i guess itās not an issue because no-one seems bothered, but i was wondering why this isā¦?
1 Like
Most motor controllers are made this way.
3 Likes
most āgoodā controllers? or is it more budget options that you find soldering on controllers?
2 Likes
Thereās really no better way, your wires have to be soldered at some point.
As long as the joint is good it wonāt shake loose.
2 Likes
Flipsky 4.12:
Maker-X:
Flipsky dual:
Unity:
Youāll find soldered leads across all brands and price ranges.
2 Likes
I mean if you wanna do something strange and have an ESC with wafer thin phase leads so you can put them through the lid of a waterproof box you could spot weld a nickle phase wire to the solder pad, but like thatās probably not worth the effort since its so easy to short and will fracture from stress and cannot carry 80A
1 Like
ok, thatās very reasuring to see all of them are soldered. thanks.
1 Like
You wont be able to get a 60 tooth wheel pulley on a 90mm wheel, the pulley will be larger than the wheel in that case
If its one of those gross Boosted HTD3M systemsā¦
1 Like
Surely you jest 
1 Like
I meanā¦a 60T HTD3M pulley has a 57mm pitch diameter, the outer belt diameter runs about 4mm higherā¦
1 Like
I build on bugger pneumatic wheels primarily so Iād hate to give you the wrong answer.
Iād check out some 10s battery builds on urethane wheels and see what they used and if they changed to other pulley ratios.
1 Like