Archived: the OG noob question thread! šŸ˜€

Could wetness cause this?

Water it is conductive (because of the salts and minerals), if you have an exposed bullet connector, it could cause a shortā€¦and might blow your vescā€¦I use tu have over current abs fault because the bullets connectors where just a little bit loose (not at simple eye view), I checked and move the wires and discover itā€¦Used to happen when going fast, or with a bump, and it felt like a suden lost of power. Check your solder joints, sometimes a bad solder could breakā€¦And use proper isolation for all of the connectors, including the sensorsā€¦

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I am trying to set of my 4 mounts on my AWD haggy drive setup.

3/4 of them are ok, one of them is not tracking well. I have tried re-mounting the motor, the mount, changed wheelsā€¦

Has anyone experienced this with their haggy drive setup?

One thing I would note is the pulley is able to slide slightly into the wheel on the belt drive in question, like it comes away from the truck axle where it should sit. This is not the case with the other wheels.

Means current draw was above the absolute current limit, believe itā€™s set in the general motor settings. The controller will restart if it hits the fault Iā€™m pretty sure but shouldnā€™t be an issue so long as you arenā€™t getting it often or bump the value up to whatever makes sense for what youā€™re drawing, sounds like a crazy amount of power but might be instantaneous, Iā€™m able to easily and pretty quickly get up to speed with battery limited at 20A and motor limited at 40A but depends on weight, inclined, alignment of belt/wheel motor to avoid extra friction etc.

Ah just read other response agree it sounds more like short than actual current draw but some other things to check.

Found the obvious reason for this issue :sweat_smile:


Not sure how I did not screw it in all the way, what a screw up.

Maybe that kitty hair is the issue for all I know :crying_cat_face:

Video of how bad the belt is walking, if that helps.

The problem I really have is I donā€™t know what to adjust? Because the mount is such a tight fit there is no shifting it. I have two more mounts, if I donā€™t get any advice Iā€™ll just try another one of the mounts to see if that was the issue (and not let the kitty so close during assembly)

@haggyboard.timo

Any advice is greatly appreciated :blush:

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question to all you speed devilsā€¦

how effective is kranking up the battery max and motor amps given ive been running quite conservative settings?

im running dual 6374 on 65A each and my battery on 75A max ( rated 75A cont, 100A peak)

where would you start tweaking for more power?

on my daily commutes motors get barely hand warm

Increasing battery max increases your power at high RPM and heavy load - like accelerating up a hill.
Increasing motor max improves power at low RPM - like accelerating from a stop.

As long as all your hardware can handle it, and you can comfortably control it, more of both is better. You didnā€™t mention what hardware your vesc is - it may very well be your limiting factor, not the battery or motor.

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Bump those motors to 75 and battery to 100. Thatā€™s a good start

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controller is a unity mounted with thermal paste to the aluminium bottom of my enclosure (though not really sure how effective that is)

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Not considering his battery specs, there is no point of having more battery amps to motor amps.
It wonā€™t do anything for the motor output.
If anything you would want them to be the same or more motor amps.

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Itā€™s a unity, battery amps is total system value and motor is per. so 75A per motor, 100A combined battery, aka 50 battery amps per side.

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really should have stated that in the first place, sorry :see_no_evil:

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Sometimes you can remove the can (rotor) from the other end. Which model motor is it?

since no one else chimed in i would assume you still consider these values somewhat safe for the components?

given that i dont run low quality hardware i mean

Start by turning up ā€œmotor maxā€

What motors are they?

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The unity can definitely handle it. Iā€™m assuming when you say peak 100A battery, that it can actually handle that much for short periods, so fine to bump to 100A max. And most decent 6374s will do 75A no problem. Some can even bump 80A.

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theyre the red (unsealed) maytech 6374, 170kV variant

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ok, i guess what my question intended was to make you spout absolute max values for a setup like this :see_no_evil:

thats not what im aiming for tho, so ill start with your suggestion

Idk about the 170kv but I have my maytech 6374 220kv set to 80A (also unity) and it does not desync at full throttle. Also 200kv 6365s at 75A also no problem. As for the battery, depends what cells u got and how its built.

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ive read lower kV saturates the stator quicker, so ill be cautious

battery is this one , not gonna take risks on damaging this beauty either

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