It would probably be better to draw a diagram of which wire is going where. Your balance wires are just sitting there so theres no way to tell how you’re going to connect them.
Two 5s im assuming as it’s a 10s bms. Do you have your series connector for them?
Where are you connecting your negative wires?
Yes I got my series harness, so for battery one I’m connecting the BMS harness balance wires up to N4 for battery 1, skipping N5. For battery 2, I connect them all the way to the black wire. For the charge port, the positive goes to the main positive line in the harness that’s connected to the two batteries, the fuse is connected to the -C of the BMS, going to the negative wire. Am I right?
A good file is one of my favorite tools
reach out to hoytskate@hoytskate.com so I can share with the appropriate folks. will prolly want to get on zoom/facetime to troubleshoot.
draw a diagram
Sounds right. But a diagram would explain it perfectly. Just double and triple check before you put power to it. Good luck
Success! I did forget heat shrink, might just add electrical tape but, I made a mistake and totally forgot so I had one of the balance extender plugs on my lipo, I cut the plug off that was going to the BMS harness and it sparked, luckily it wasn’t on all the way and I got it off very fast. Resulted in this happening to the plug on the lipo. The little pins from the balancer extender came out, tried the other extender and it went in so not sure if I did something to the lipo itself
Here’s the plug for the battery (is it still good? Or did I just fuck up my battery)
Here’s the other connector ready to go for battery 1 (the battery plug)
One of the cardinal rules of working with battery stuff is to NEVER EVER cut multiple wires at once. Only ever have one wire cut, stripped, or otherwise exposed in any way.
There is no off switch on a lipo battery. They’re always angry.
That looks pretty crispy to me. As long as you can still plug the mating connector into it all the way and get a good connection on each and every wire, then it’s probably OK.
If not, you just fucked your battery.
Those connectors can be replaced, but they require a level of care that you haven’t demonstrated yet to be done safely.
Yes, I know the caution of a battery, especially Lipos. It’s not like when it sparked I stood there with a finger up my ass and just let the battery explode. It didn’t smoke, didn’t swell up, I plugged in the second extender just to see if everything is good, a few pins from the other extender fell out, I could feel a bit of electricity on the solder joints, might be good, but as you can see, I haven’t been doing this shit for 30 years. Sure you made the same mistake I did today, we’re not perfect. All a learning curve
I strongly suggest getting a voltmeter and testing continuity on all wires. Testing voltage across all wires and cells.
While you may have only let it happen a split second. You can easily damage them without showing visual sign of damage. Checking said components with appropriate tool can ease that uncertainty of not knowing.
Would a multimeter work as well?
Yes. A multimeter usually includes a voltmeter function.
Alright. I just tested the battery with the electronics and it turned on. So I have hope it’s ok
Hi, is it normal that 1 motor starts spinning way before the other one? I am using 2 torque6 VESC connected with the can cable. The remote is a puck.
Dont ask why but I naturally call it a voltmeter knowing it’s a multimeter. Stoner struggles
During detection or during remote use?
During remote use, I didn’t pay attention during detection tho.
Definitely an issue there. Are we talking within a second or more?
I’d re-detect and reconfigure remote and report back lol.
Alright I will do that, thanks.
