you can see tyhe belt already slipped a bit, it wore down the pulley a bit.it wasn’t even that loose too.
ah didn’t see that part, if u set the 3 bolts in the middle of the slot and measure this distance, i can tell u what belt length u will need
approximatively 7.25 cm
280 should be optimum length for 16/36
is ther any way to get a correct tension for this pulley/hub/belt
there still isn’t a perfect automatic belt tension system, the closest we have right now is the mount that hoyt st / metroboard and haggy are selling.
both hoyt st and metroboard uses spring tension method, and haggy’s mount uses a easy access screw to adjust the belt tension (not exactly automatic, but its super easy to adjust that, it only take less than a minute to do both sides)
what i meant to ask was how do i know by touching it that my belt is tensioned enough ?
personally i don’t do it by feel. i loosen the belt until i get no skipping when i do hard brake, then its good for me, that has work out for 3 of my boards
the way i do it is, loosen all motor screws, put belt, pulley and wheel on, use ur hands to force spin the motor while u try ur hardest to not let the wheel spin at all, if belt skip, move the motor closer, tighten 1 motor screw, repeat until no more skipping.
then tighten all motor screws, hold the wheel hardest u can and throttle a little on the remote, be careful where u put ur hands tho, if that still doesn’t skip, u good.
all of these are perform while everything is already mount on the deck, do not do it while u have nothing bolted down, ur drivetrain will go flying everywhere…don’t ask me how i know that
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These are the words of someone who has used the search button.
Check out the solutions in this thread, though I do not recommend them.
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Thanks for the link. Good enough to scare me away from that …
I think I’ll just start dialing back my current settings and maybe stay a little safer because my murder board will be less murdery…
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close enough ty!
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I just did a hard break on my board and the power just cut out and made me fall. What could cause that? Is it somthing with breaking current or regen or something?
There are a huge number of possible reasons, and it’s impossible to narrow them down without more information.
For example if you’re using a BMS that’s not bypassed/charge-only, it could have cut power, which would cause the result you described.
If your battery was pretty much full and you were going down a hill, then the ESC itself could have cut brakes to avoid an overvoltage on the battery.
It could be a DRV fault.
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can i combine 4mm copper wire with 1036 strand aluminium wire?
real ghetto shit i know but neither are long enough
The BMS is bypassed (Flexibms), The battery was not full and I was going on a straight. Just a hard break and it all died and restarted 
#FlipskyVesc
I would suggest trying to replicate the cutout, and then see if you can read any faults from the ESC. Either through a smartphone app over bluetooth, or through the desctop vesc tool and a cable.
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Generally mixing copper and aluminum is a very bad idea, as they expand differently thermally, which leads to connections falling apart over time, and the aluminum galvanizes and corrodes against the copper, which loses conductivity due to the oxide layer being an insulator, increasing resistance and causing melting or fires. If you can keep the connection gas tight or use specialized splices, it’ll be ok, but I think you’ll need specialized solders for aluminum anyways due to the oxidation.
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which thane fits 10mm axle .