Naw i wouldnt bother the caps r very hard to melt long as its a genuine amass connector. So if u have good joints its alright to not bother heatshrinking
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Shouldn’t be hard to put the end caps on. Only hard if u have shit solder and it globs/creates a cold weld over the connector. I had it happen before. Issues was i was buying cheap ass chinese soldering wire. The 30/60 rosin core stuff from china is hit or miss.
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That’s one of the issues I was struggling with, my heat shrink was to big so I tried heating it down so the cap can fit over but I guess heat shrink has its certain point it can go to. I guess the kit I got with all the different sized heat shrinks don’t fit my 12 awg wire, not sure if electrical tape could be good or just leave it be and just add the caps
Just add caps. They wont melt unless u have a fire go on and believe me if that happens its usually a batteey fuck up like too many amps being drawn through nickel plated steel. A short somewhere else in ur pack, etc…
Alright. Yes their amass connectors. I’ve been resoldering joints that look iffy and I could improve on since I was in a rush the first day soldering the VESC, but yesterday I took an easy and had nice clean joints so today I was just fixing the fucked up ones to make sure that connection is nice and solid. Unfortunately I ran out of my 63/37 rosin core solder so I just ordered some, still gotta solder a battery harness and my BMS harness balance wires
Yeah make sure ur joints r nice and clean. If their ass dont bother using them ur more likely to short somethin out (vesc) and believe me u dont want a lithium fire. Pain in the ass to put out (dont use water if u can, makes it worse).
Yeah my issue is a combination of middling technique and too-big wire, I was mostly struggling with 8 or some times 10 AWG
Using lipos haha, plus you can always tin the tip (provides heat to the existing solder faster and melts it all) making the wire sink in and coating it smoothly
If u have crap welds i recommend buying some tip tinner for ur soldering iron, some flux for better welds, and always always always pretin wires 14awg or less
Lipo still uses lithium, if anything they’re more volatile
Doesnt help ur situation out still lithium
Oh, well. I also got flux and all of that. I tin the connector and wire even tho it comes tinned already, also my BMS comes equipped with Bluetooth so I can monitor the batteries as it’s in use. Also setting the values in the software to where it cutoffs and slows the board down, keeping the voltage where it needs to be
I still do that since sometimes ur soldering wire doesnt like to stick to other soldered stuff especially if the solder used is lead free.
If I do it a few times and the strands become loose I either just trim it with nail clippers or if that piece of wire is to mangled to try to shape back to the way it was I just cut it off and strip the covering off just a bit so it’s fresh and I just twist it super tight so the strands are tight together
Most generic heatshrink has a 2:1 shrink ratio. That means if it starts with a 6mm ID, after shrinking it will have a 3mm ID minimum, and won’t go any smaller than that.
You can get heatshrink with a greater shrink ratio, but it’s less common.
You can also get adhesive-lined heatshrink. It basically has a thin layer of hot glue inside, which melts as it shrinks, making a very tough, waterproof connection. That layer of glue also makes the ID shrink further too, since the glue gets squeezed down as well - Ratios of up to 6:1 or better can be had.
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Would that be able to fit through the end cap and solder joint?
LiPo cells (LCO chemistry) are the most volatile of the Li-Ion chemistries but it’s not the lithium as all of the different Li-Ion cells have that (as an inert metal oxide powder). It’s the cobalt in LiPo’s that makes them more volatile.
All the other chemistries have less or no cobalt.
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I’m not sure I understand the question.
So when I put the heat shrink on, would the end cap be able to go over it
That depends on the size of the wire, the size of the heatshrink, and the size of the hole in the end cap. I don’t have enough information to give you an answer.
You should be able to use a short enough piece that it doesn’t have to go through the endcap holes though.