Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

I’m in the minority with this recco, but I quite like Cloudwheels.

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any diy rechargeable or battery powered spotlight setups for night riding?

nitecore tm28, instant blindness at night if u r not careful

it uses 4x 18650 cells, so u can either charge via dc jack or swap out for fully charged cells

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Yeah same, I really like mine for the mixed quality road surfaces near me. Not off-road, but far from a race track

How many pins should the v4 version have? Bought a 7 pin Bluetooth module and was hoping…

v4 = 7pins uart
v6 = 8pins uart

this is standard, rx and tx pins are also swapped in the v6 version, but flipsky product is always wrong in that regards

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For installing helical gear drives on motor shafts like these, do I add washers between the bearing (A) and the pinion after removing the clip or would it be ok to put them between the thicker part of the shaft (B) and the pinion without removing the clip?

Thank you!

I would not recommend removing the circlip.

Other than that, I have no experience with gear drives, and your question doesn’t give me enough information to be more helpful.

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Which helical geardrives

Also definitely do not remove the circlip, your motor will come apart while in use

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Good to know, thanks. Was planning on installing Moon drives and got sceptical because I saw several install videos for other helicals on shafts with consistent diameter where the clip was removed and replaced by washers to counteract axial load…

Okay - I’m not familiar with how the moondrive is assembled but it seems like a bad idea to go without the circlip @Venom121212 knows

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Funny, every helical gear user has told me to remove the circlip lol.

Originally I had it like this:

So let’s see… I started off with using a circlip and then it got eaten up and I street faced on Halloween in full rick Sanchez costume.

Unfortunately, the helicals aren’t mirrored so one side is pushing the load into the motor, one is pushing away from it.

Then I got told to not use a circlip and to just stack washers and loctite the fucker down. This worked well until the loctite 638 broke and it ate another shim. I caught it before it got too loose and street faced me again. I switched to straight cuts and 648 loctite and I’ve been riding great ever since.

My opinion:

Those axle shims are crazy thin and flimsy. Unless you get the spacing 100% tight with solid spacers, I fear they will get eaten up while torqueing out. Either use one solid washer that’s perfectly sized or stack thick boiis and go heavy on the loctite 648. I wish someone made a perfect spacer that slips over that motor nub like this red doodley.

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should have specified “budget” lol

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convoy s2/s2+ or s21A for use of 21700 cells.

If you want it brighter get the astrolux ec01. (can take both 18650 and 21700)

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What would cause my 5v UART pins to be at 3.33v instead of 5v? I’m also measuring 3.33v on the 3 wire ppm output. Do they share the same regulator?

I run this guy just in my hand, but is as bright as a spot light. Small enough to handle, but quite powerful.

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Having a dilemma. So I know on the XT-90 connectors there’s end caps to put on after soldering. Is putting heat shrink on the solder joint and adding the cap overkill? Since I don’t really have heat shrink that work would electrical tape work as well. Just wanted extra protection and strength so the connections strong asf

i’ve done plenty xt90s with the cap by itself, it’s fine long as you’ve soldered it correctly

the solder joint, if done correctly, shouldn’t break, somethhing something i think wire should break before the joint? basically, if you need the heatshrink to keep the join together, you messed up
heatshrink definitely gives you even more peace of mind, but it’s not really needed

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Alright, it’s not that the joints are bad, I just was wondering if it would be a good idea to add heat shrink along with the cap. Ive been improving the joints that could’ve been better to satisfy my brain that it’s all good. Ran out of my Rosin core solder so I have to wait for more to come in

IMO it could be a good idea for insulation rather than strength, but in my experience with larger wire it can be tricky to get the end caps on over some solder joins so I end up just using heat shrink. I think it’s probably overkill to have both, but no real harm in overkill

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