Well, if I’m not able to source an enclosure for the Onsra deck, then I’ll hail mary and get a Flux deck/enclosure kit so I can finally wear big boy pants. And grow some muscle by lugging that stuff six floors every day.
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where do you guys buy caliber 2 trucks + motor mounts in bulk?
or any other decent standard length trucks ig
By passthrough connector, I assume you mean screws pass through the 3dprinted enclosure, and then thread into the rivnut?
If thats the case, id ask why you don’t want to use threaded inserts (for wood) for this?
I’m by experience, rivnuts and pop-rivet style rivets in general are best used on hard materials, since stuff like wood will just compress (which leads to the rivet/nut not gripping very well. obviously YMMV tho.
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I don’t think most people buy caliber trucks (or any trucks really) in “bulk”
you starting a business or something?
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nah all for myself im tired of matching random trucks of different lengths and shapes, not a big bulk maybe like 10-15 of em
dang man, if you got 15 esk8s of cash, why not just make a few nicer boards to cover all your bases instead?
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i dont plan on making 15 different boards but its mainly for mounting different hardware to those trucks so i can hot swap them and also replace my current ones which are pretty scratched
and i think its perfectly acceptable to own 15 trucks ok?
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I think you have a record for causing the most head-scratching of anyone on here in a while
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I tried threaded inserts first but those kept spinning too.
How tight are the holes you’ve drilled for those rivet nuts? and how long are you waiting after you jb weld them into place?
On another note, how about refilling the holes and trying a different kind of insert?
**nevermind just saw what you sent XD
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The thing was the hole was tight and I put it on the threads and it would get pushed to the bottom rather than stay on the threads. The threads are also so small that making the hole bigger would mean it may break out? My battery is massively heavy so I can’t risk that on such small threads so I went with the pass through that grips the top of the board.
wait, blind rivet nuts only have threads on the inside, you’re not jb welding there are you? Or are you talking about thread locker sinking to the bottom?
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which type? the ones with the big sorta blades on them, or the more helicoil lookin ones? also did you try epoxying the inserts? I feel like if proper inserts couldn’t hold it, a rivnut stands no chance, because they don’t really have any way of gripping the material the way inserts do afaik
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No the glue on threaded inserts sinking to the bottom. Not the rivets.
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Yeah makes sense but the thing is I couldn’t get the glue on the inserts. It would slide down to the bottom of the hole. It’s like putting your finger on the outer thread and spinning the insert. That’s the perfect way to get the glue off. All the glue would be pushed down by the wood around the hole.
Glueless threaded insert vs glued rivet nut 
if i want a vesc always on do i just short the switch and gnd pins together?
Rivnuts are not the correct choice for relatively soft, thick deck material. From my own experience, they only really work well on thin, hard things like sheetmetal.
Threaded inserts are the way to go - Drill the hole the recommended size, then take a small triangular file and make some little cuts around the circumference, for epoxy to sit while the insert is screwed in.
Coat the inside of the hole and the outside of the insert with epoxy, and let it sit for a bit - Let the epoxy soak into the deck material a bit.
Then insert the inserts, and let the epoxy set for its full cure time at minimum, before testing them.
You could also use a file or dremel to interrupt the threads on the insert, to give the epoxy a place to be, and also something to grip.
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Good idea. I put some more jbweld on the rivet nuts earlier today and if that doesn’t hold tomorrow I’ll move back to inserts
brùh
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