I have a whole pack of them, will do! Also you mentioned the white cable goes to the positive battery terminal… which one is that? I am using PPM I believe because that’s what came with the remote was a board and connectors for PPM
the red wire, if that battery is built using normal standard
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Red.
To be honest, i wouldn’t bother with that cable. I’ve been using the vx1 for a long time and 4 LEDs don’t really tell me much so i skipped it. Much rather use a voltage meter or some telemetry devices.
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Fair enough can’t argue with that. If one of you can walk me through the remote setup on vesc tool I can get it connected and then heatshrink those wraps. My brother is gonna fix the electrical tape while I try and figure this remote out. Me and @Paul77 did the rest of the setup but he had to leave, so we didn’t get a chance to setup the remote
i don’t know how much knowledge you have or if i maybe underestimate your talent but if you have to ask which cable the positive wire is then please be extra careful with everything you make that has to do with any kind of power or voltage
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Lmao I was a bit confused because I was looking at the end of it and it looks like it plugs into the esc somewhere, so when you said positive terminal I figured you meant on there and since there are like 50 plugs I wasn’t sure which one. My mind blanked and I didn’t even think about the black and red wires because I’ve never seen them hooked up like that before
here’s how to set it up.
This is for the mobile version but works exactly the same for the windows tool (just looks different)
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Sounds like a BMS issue to me. Check all the p-group voltages and make sure nothing is out of whack.
Also, it looks like you don’t have the BMS bypassed for discharge, which means that the BMS can cut power to the ESC if it decides to, which is not good for rider health and safety. I would recommend either bridging the B- and P- pads with a piece of thick wore or solder, or just removing the wire from P- and adding it to B-, so that both wires are there.
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Um…
Have you checked your battery then? 
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Hey, so I have gotten to the mapping part of the remote setup and nothing happens when I move the throttle up and down I just hear the motors and they are going duuuhhhhhhh, like a buzzing noise whenever the remote is triggered. Anyone have a fix?
When triggering the remote the motors barely move at all but they went through the setup just fine. So im not really sure what is wrong.
I will definitely try to bypass for discharge, thanks! But could you specify what you mean with checking the p-group voltages? 
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have tinkered with the motor cables in any way? Did you do a Motor detection at all?
By tinkered if you mean messed with them no, I just took the motors out of the box, put them onto the mounts and axles and plugged them into the esc. How do you do a motor detection? The motors both worked during the setup they were spinning correctly and everything but now they are not.
What we did was we changed the settings to slightly lower ones on the brake regen and motor output and then we wrote the data. Then we did the canbus to the other one and did the same
Take a volt meter or multimeter, and carefully probe the connector that comes from the battery and goes to the BMS.
DO NOT allow the connector probes to touch each other while measuring, or touch more than one contact each. That will cause a Very Bad Thing to happen.
Starting from one end, measure the voltage on two adjacent pins - It should be between 3 and 4.2 volts or so. Then move over one pin, so instead of measuring between pins 1 and 2, you’re measuring between 2 and 3. Repeat until you’ve checked them all. You should have a list something like this:
3.85
3.86
3.85
3.84
… etc, for the number of cells in series in your battery (usually 10 or 12).
Ideally, all the cells should be within 0.01 volts of each other. A difference of 0.1 volts or more is not good, and can indicate an issue with the battery pack.
Turns out one has a difference of 0.08 V so I need to balance it. But is it safe to bypass the bms discharge?
within acceptable range i’d say
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I will literally pay someone to help me get this remote thing sorted. I am getting concerned because I have no clue whats up with the motors not spinning and instead making a clicking noise when they worked just fine through the motor setup.
Please re-do your motor detection.