The main issue with 26650 (and 18350, 18500, 14500, 14650, and all the others) is a matter of production scale. 18650s were (and maybe still are) the most-produced, most-common cell size for cylindrical li-ion rechargeable batteries, by a large margin. Among myriad other devices, pretty much every laptop used between three and nine of them, until they started to get so thin that you couldn’t hide an 18mm diameter cylinder anywhere anymore.
Because of this disproportionate demand, more R&D was put towards maximizing energy and power density, and minimizing cost in that form factor than any other. More factories were tooled up for producing 18650s than the other sizes.
All this led to 18650s being cheaper per unit-energy or unit-power than 26650s or other cylindrical cells, which also meant they were easier for us hobbyists to get our grubby little hands on them.
21700 has started to outshine 18650 as the de-facto size for esk8 for the same reason: Tesla, among other industry giants, switched its vehicle and energy-storage packs from 18650s to 21700 cells, primarily (at least in Tesla’s case) because they could use fewer larger cells per pack, which makes assembly easier, faster, and cheaper. Same reason Tesla is now moving away from the 21700 form factor to the 4680 “soup can” giant cell, and seems to be planning on making the battery pack a structural member in upcoming cars. Fewer cells and battery pack components means less assembly work, and less work means less cost.
Have a question about range and if I could get more out of my board.
12s6p 18650’s, dual motor 6380 190kv, 18/72 pulleys, 200mm tire, and I’m about 180lbs and the board is about 40lbs.
My riding style is fast, routinely hitting 40+ on straights while carving, average speed 25. I Had settings at 80A to the motor but brought it down to 60 to try and get some help getting more range. Really upsetting cause I know I could kill 40 in a day personally no problem and would love to one day. I get 15 or so but usually stop shy of 14 to further aid my batteries health.
This winter I’ll probably look into getting another deck and enclosure that can carry more range, or go all out and get a kaly or lacriox but this lack of range really kills my love or drive to get out on the board and I’m definitely an all day adventure rider and that’s what I’d love to do with it.
Smaller motors (or single drive) can reduce parasitic losses there.
Looser belt (with idlers to make sure you’ve still got good engagement) helps some.
If gear drive, then maybe a thinner grade of grease (or going to oil?) might help.
Basically make the board less fun, and it will go longer.
Just going slower is going to massively increase your range. Air resistance is exponential, so doubling your speed from 20mph to 40mph has 8x the drag. On a bike (a reasonable comparison to a skating profile vs. a car), at 10mph, 50% of the work goes to overcoming aerodynamic drag, while that increases to 90% at 30mph. That’s why drafting is so effective at high speeds.
Hello I need some help figuring out why my FSESC wont turn on. So the FSESC will turn on if I connect it directly to a DC power supply, but not when connected to my battery and BMS circuit. The battery voltage is 41.4 V and the measured voltage on the FSESC is 40.1 V. I cant understand why the FSESC wont turn on, does it not draw any current?
Why are you carving at 40 (edit: mph) on 200mm tires? If you like speed, get a smaller smoother tire and ditch some off-road ability.
The faster you go, the nicer the road has to be, which means you don’t need aggressive (range zapping) AT tires.
Unless you’ve got a full suspension to manage rough roads, you’re just holding on at top speed.
I still need recommendations for where to get hall sensor extensions. Mboards and boundmotor both have them in stock but I mean its mboards and bound motors, you know? I can make my own but id rather not solder something that small.
Hi guys, I am at the point in which I am setting up my remote. @Paul77 has helped me a ton so far but he had an event so he had to go. I am very grateful for his help, but I am stuck again. We got to the point of setting up the remote. I am on the PPM mapping screen and when I push the throttle on the remote forward the board sort of buzzes and makes an odd sound but nothing happens. Can someone walk me through the rest of the setup?
Also can someone tell me what the blue solo wire is for that is included with the xv1? I would also like to know what the half-unplugged white wire is that comes with the vx1 as well. Also in a flipsky 6.6 dual plus vesc where to I plug in the three wire cable on the end? I will attach pictures of all three things asked about
I didnt install those, I installed the xt90s on the antispark the other was by the battery builder and the guy who sold me my vesc. I will remove the excess rn! What do you recommend instead of electrical tape?
I did not do the bullets yet because I still need need program the remote and then need to attach the enclosure which will require me to undo those motor cables once. I will put new heartstrings around them once that is done.
