There isn’t a dedicated switch port, u have to wire it urself. That’s why I’ve provided the wiring diagram on here for easy access since it’s hard to find in Trampa’s website
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damn so do you like solder each cable on the individual pin
That’s one way of doing things
i mean theres no pictures or anything on the site of how they are connected
U also don’t see trampa switch offering have any jst connector on it
damn boi thats a jst? its so tiny it looked like regular cable
wait wouldnt a single jst like that snap at the first pothole
on the esc, that’s a male jst connector, and how u wire the switch is up to u
solder, crimp ur own jst connector or just tape it on, its up to u, i don’t judge
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would a blowtorch melt off the super glue if i happened to get it stuck inside the pulley
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do i want to ask why?
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nevermind i got it out!, used 2 long flatheads on each side of it and applied pressure and it worked
Before u even plug it up to a unity or xenith u need to update the firmware on the wand and nrf dongle 1st on a vesc that has a swd and comms/uart port. Then also insure that the rx pin is going to tx on the unity and tx is goin to rx. I use a trampa wand on my xeniths and have a friend whos got a wand that we are gonna use on the Maker dv6
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Seems like you’d have to insert the jst pin in the plus to fit on the ‘switch’ place Right above the ADC2 in the pic
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I’m going to need to extend the wires on every connection between my xenith and my tbdd. I have already replaced the bullets on the torqueboard drives, the xenith connectors are stock… mt60? Right? Anyways, in my opinion the easiest method would be to use 3 extensions soldered to bullets on each end, basic extension cables, and then run them in a flat line and shrink wrap it. But the hall sensor cables are the real issue for me as I’ve never dealt with those before, can/should I just order some kind of what uhhh 5 I think pin connector extension or do I have to make them? Can I just run these motors sensorless? I plan to run roll to start and the only unsealed gap being the charge port, and every time I see roll to start mentioned so is sensorless. Alright I think that covers it.
That is one very kludgy way to do it. I would recommend buying a kit of JST connectors and just using those.
I got a car battery for welding, and when I started to charge it, the charger (and my multimeter) give a reading of 14.8v - - is this normal/fine? Should it be charging that high? I did some reading and it seems like <15v is what a battery will be at when a car is on, but when it’s charging is this voltage OK?
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Yep that’s a fine charge voltage for a 12v nominal lead acid battery.
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I’m no engineer but, yes those are what I was referring to. Im also no mathematician, so I have no idea how it would compare, but what if you went against the trend and say ran those in 8s6p or some other odd configuration?
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I have no idea… This one has a protection circuit, all of mine do since they’re just for flashlights. But the cell can indeed do 15 amps discharge. It sags, and gets warmish, but since the light only ever.draws about 7/8 amps on max, it’s not being stressed much.
I do wonder how they’d fare in a large pack though, if one could get a batch of unprotected cells.
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They used to be one of the holy trinity of vape batteries in unprotected dangerous mods. 18650, 26650, or 18350 was all anyone ran. But those were also much smaller, albeit still pretty high discharge, devices.