its for sure an issue if i cant turn without bindings then i need to fix it, but its very strange that even at 35 degrees the damn thing doesnt turn im never buying springs again
Bindings add a lot of leverage though. You might be surprised.
Went for my maiden voyage with the puck but noticed lack of acceleration compared to my vx1.
This is the setup I’ve done
Put remote in mode 3
Turned off remote and board
Turned on remote in pairing mode
Turn on board
Go into mapping/ppm wizard and do setup.
Changed throttle expo to 2 (20)
Deadband to 7 and even 3
Changed polynomial to exponential
Ramping time from 0.4 to 0.25
But it still won’t feel as punchy as the vx1. Any ideas?
With the vx1 I didn’t even touch ramping time, polynomial/exponential and throttle expo.
_
Also when changing something PPM related via metr and applying that change one wheel (master side, unity?) Spins for a short amount.
Not sure if thats Puck related or Metr?
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someone asked me to attach a non flexible kit (challenger direct drive kit) to a flexible deck (121c aileron) is there a way to do it?
i thought possibly by attaching a large amount of foam pads in between it may work?
I’m trying to understand when my soldering iron is at the right temperature to start soldering.
According to the manual “when the temperature reaches to the desired temperature that the heating indicator light will be flashed on and off to maintain the set temperature”
But when i turn on the iron cold, the little dot to the lower right of the temp starts flashing instantly (after two or three seconds).
Surely the tip is not at 680 degrees after two seconds?
How long should I wait to start soldering?
Some soldering irons heat up very quickly, especially nice ones.
I just start soldering when I can instantly melt solder on the tip
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The ones he have don’t have ‘dampas’ as it’s not trampa trucks…
What did you expect, It’s from flipsky and not the real deal (Trampa)
It’s pretty much like buying an Iphone from aliexpress knowing it’s fake and saying not going to buy iphones ever again 
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is this a valid way of manually balancing a pack with a low pgroup? nothing is actually connected in this image.
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Yes, the LLT BMS has a function called (in older versions of the app) “static balance,” which means that the BMS will be constantly balancing your pack, not just when you are charging. This can take a really long time depending on how large your pack is, but it works and is really easy.
In your version of the app, all you have to do is go into the “Function settings” menu and turn the toggle for “charge balance” to the off position. Assuming that your balance precision settings are all correct, you should see your pack begin to balance immediately.
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even better! so this will basically pull all the cells down to the same 4.165v?
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Yep it will burn off the voltage in the high cells until they all match.
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That iron has a separate heating element and tip (they’re not bonded together into one unit). That means the heater will shoot up to 680 really fast, but the tip will take a little while to catch up. I’d say 30 seconds to a minute or two. Basically poke it with a piece of solder, and if it melts easily, you should be ready to go.
For large, high-mass connections (thick wire, large lugs, fat traces, etc), you may want to wait a little longer.
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what can use to insulate this connection. I forgot to put heat shrink on first and have to solder this(already added loop key and heat shrink it)
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Well depending on the angle, I’d probably use a combination of kapton and electrical tape
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Some electrical tape wrapped at least as thick as the wire insulation and a small tie-wrap (or two or three) over that to keep the tape from unraveling in warm weather. There are paint-on insulation liquids but you’ll need lots and lots of layers, each taking a while to harden. Not worth it IMO.
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damn even at 50 degree angle it still wont turn, i wonder if the springs are the problem
Take the springs out and try?
They do look pretty hefty, just looking at the photos.
can i change direction without reprogramming the board goes backwards