I like the new XBoard black gloves but I want a closed-finger version. Are they any decent ones available? I don’t need max armoring, just something for 15-20mph crashes.
The searches I’ve done have all led to heavily armored or open finger ones.
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I would say try charging it again.
Depending on the internal layout, some lights have a small amount of power drain (Between a few μA and a few mA) even when they’re “off”, and if it’s more than a few μA, it can discharge the battery significantly over a fairly short period of time.
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I tried that in first place, let it top out thinking the battery was drained or something. Still the same… 
Did it ever successfully work in your possession?
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Yes it did. It still worked fine one month ago when I did some mounting test and was promptly put back in my shelf after charging it to compensate eventual discharge.
The charging I tried yesterday was wonky thought, status light kept blinking red (like it couldn’t charge) but went through after some time.
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Flatland3D made a full-finger glove with slide pads and and wrist brace. I have their open-finger version and it’s amazing, but not as durable as I would like. One crash and they were pretty much toast.
After those I upgraded to a pair of Knox Orsa MK2’s which are super hardy, and still have the built in slide pucks that the Flatland3D gloves have. These might be a bit more armoured than you are looking for though, and they get a bit hot on summer days.
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Thanks!
I had seen those Orsa gloves and they look to be a bit more than what I would like to have (armor and heat). It might be my only decent option though.
I checked out Lazyrolling…no gloves. 
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Ok here’s a couple.
If I wanted to upgrade the remote in a pre built board from a vx1 to a Hoyt puck, how difficult is that process?
When your charging the board does the BMS cutoff when reaching 100% or do you want to monitor and remove when at full capacity?
How do you store your boards to maintain the batteries, I’ve heard maintain 70% but do you want to charge and discharge, and if so at what interval?
How long do these battery packs last? Is it cycles you want to measure or years in operation? To add to this, what are the lifespans you more experienced riders have experienced out of your boards?
I’ve done my fair share of googling and searching the forums but I seem to get
you dont have to. Better off protected than injured, dude 
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It depends heavily on the ESC that’ in the prebuilt; Specifically, whether it can accept input from a different remote/rx combo, or whether it has the receiver built-in.
If the ESC has the receiver built in, you will have to replace the ESC as well as the remote, because there’s no way for the new remote to talk to the original ESC.
Depending on the exact BMS (and the BMS settings if it’s a smart BMS), the BMS cutoff is usually set slightly above the nominal maximum charge voltage (usually for a battery with 4.20v max charge, the BMS will cut off at 4.25v or so).
To prevent the battery from being overcharged even a little, the charger itself should terminate charge before the BMS does. I personally set my charger to finish at 4.1 or 4.15v.
Most BMSs also only balance when at or near full charge and also connected to a charger, so leaving the charger connected after the battery is “full”, is a good idea to promote balancing.
That is a very complicated question, that depends on a huge variety of factors.
The simplest answer is that the cell manufacturers rate the cells for a certain number of full charge/discharge cycles at the rated discharge rate, until the capacity degrades to 80% of nominal.
For most of the cells we use (VTC5/5a/6, 30Q, P42A, P26A), that rating is somewhere between 200 and 600 cycles at full current (15, 20, or 30 amps, depending on the cell). You can find all this on the manufacturer’s datasheets.
Since we don’t usually draw the full current all the way from full to empty, or discharge all the way down to 2.5v (which is the “empty” mark for most cells), our packs generally last longer than that rating.
There is also a degradation over time, but that’s harder to quantify because it’s dependent on the storage temperature, the state of charge the cells are stored at, and other factors as well.
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This is a nice poster as a print for my living room, bro! 
I think the duck is thinking of the Flatland3d gloves and the full finger have been OOS for quite a while. Possibly a refresh on them later this year.
If you go xboard gloves I’ll send you 4 of the many fingers I’ve chopped off of gloves over the years that you can sew on 
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with flat enclosure tho
Trampa. But it’s about $240. And the enclosure for it was given to me before. I might need to see my history for it. I won’t be able to find it for the moment because it’s retarded to find it on the history page of the forum.
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i was looking at the MBS core 94 deck but the middle part looks so bent that i dont think i would be able to mount a long battery under
Mine didn’t fit well, so I had to drill new holes to the truck mount side to fit the enclosure I had. You might need to do the same if it’s too low for you.
Hi
15 or 20 mph you still need a good protection
Is like saying I don’t need a helmet if I go slow
Anyway
I can do a special order so if you don’t want the cut out for the 2 fingers let me know and I will do it
But is known during the pre order
After I can’t
Thank you to understand
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You wouldn’t be able to mount a long battery to any mountainboard deck, they’re too flexy, especially the Trampas. You’ll need segmented enclosures and batteries at the very least. Could go for a street deck like a Flux however, that one’s pretty stiff.
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i still have a 350wh flat battery in the garage so i dont see any point in buying those square lipos tbh