My unity always throws a DRV fault when the Auto turn off feature kicked in.
Why 5A for the fuse? It’s unlikely to draw more than ~150mA to push 5W through the buck converter, 5A wouldn’t trip even for a 10x overcurrent situation
I really hope that’s all that is going on with mine.
Then make it smaller
Are you using a loopkey or the Unity builtin switch or both?
just the Unity built-in switch
You probably will need a separate switch then unless you want to make one using a MOSFET.
Uhh. Anyone knows what’s up? Bought this SL-1000 3 months ago, fully charged, never used / left my home. Can’t change mode or anything, just auto shut down…
werent we supposed to stay under the esc limit for a’s
Motor current is not equal to battery current; don’t compare the two.
bruh but somewhere in this thread we had agreed that both should be for the lowest minimum value
I don’t recall agreeing with, maybe quote it because there are 18054 replies in this thread.
A drv fault is the mosfet driver chip protecting the board from exploding because of a firmware or hardware layout problem.
mr.shiteside:You can’t set the motor amps to 80 and be fine just because it’s not drawing 80 from the battery, the ESC dies long before then
that’s why esc has two basic different value parameters, batt amp and motor amp. its possible to exceed esc’s motor amp value for a short time to not cook it. im not saying u should, but u can.
as for this question,
zZoKo:85A motor, 50A esc and 30A battery
15a batt and 50a motor, per side
frame:im not saying u should, but u can.
Nah like the question isn’t some weird case where you need a “well technically you could do x for a few seconds” type answer or something that’ll confuse a noob about getting 80A in the motor but at different voltages. There is a simple answer to the question of what to do with mismatched settings and it is to take the lower of the two.
If a battery and an ESC are different, set the battery max to the lower. If a motor and an ESC are different, set the motor max to the lower.
Edit:
frame:15a batt and 50a motor, per side
But yes this is right if it’s a 2 motor setup. If it’s one motor and one VESC, set battery to 30A.
zZoKo:you and frame got a bit of conflicting info
Happens. People have their info and goes with it. If it works for them, it works.
zZoKo:so the parts can take maximum 85A motor, 50A esc and 30A battery, what should i set them to
As for this, your motors has to be 50 amps or below, and your battery has to be split if you’re going with a dual esc set up. If you try to set a max of what your esc can’t put out, it’ll be like mine doing a hard reset after overheating, possibly hurting your esc.
frame:it doesn’t matter, u can have 20a esc side, and 80a motor side. u still get 80a on motor just on lower voltage
Frame meant that if you have a pretty low battery amp, it won’t matter because it will still hit the motor amp that’s setup. Like a transformer of some kind.
zZoKo:so where do you limit to what the esc can handle
This one you can find on the motor set up in vesc tool. It should say motor and not app.
zZoKo:what if the vesc can handle less than the motor?
For this one, it’s what I said earlier:
“If you try to set a motor max of what your esc can’t put out, it’ll be like mine doing a hard reset after rapidly overheating, possibly hurting your esc.”
we agreed over there
Gotcha, what do I do about it, just roll on and hope nothing happens at the wrong time?
Try setting lower motor current limits and easing on the throttle.
Damn!!! I guess I’d rather have longevity of my equipment. Thanks for the reply.
when soldering a voltage meter in this diagram would you connect to main positive and negative after loop key? or doesn’t matter
I did say it earlier, people have their info and goes with it. By my experience at 75 motor amp on a 50 amp esc, it overheated and resetted itself. This is why I said it’s best to not go over it. I’m unfamiliar with the battery part since that’s something different in fsesc.
After the loop key so the voltage meter doesn’t stay on.