I would drill and tap a new grubscrew hole somewhere else on the pulley. That also gives you a chance to use M5 or M4. I think those are M3 and they suck.
Motor shafts are usually case-hardened.
Do not have sensors in motors and never had or used.
100A firmware 5.2 for Ubox with Type C USB port with newest vesc tool
I do not use sensors and all the sensor things are removed from the motors
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With only 3 cables (pwm) it just shows you the battery of the remote if you double tab the power button and not the board battery.
If you want to also see the battery of your board you need to solder that blue cable to the positive wire.
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In that case, the inability to start from zero speed under load is expected behavior.
In sensorless mode, the ESC has no way to determine the rotor position of the motor, so it has to guess, and try to get the motor to spin without any feedback, until it can get up to a few hundred erpm, enough to generate a signal that the ESC can use to track the rotor position. This open-loop startup is deliberately gentle (low current and low torque), to prevent any possibility of damage to the ESC. That’s why it has trouble when there’s a person standing on the board.
The fsesc6.6 might be just a bit more aggressive on the startup sequence (this can be adjusted in vesc tool), which is why you didn’t notice the issue with that ESC.
There are a few ways around this:
- Set up (and experiment with/tune) HFI, which allows the ESC to inject high frequency signals into the motor and use the feedback from those signals to track rotor position at startup (this can be finnicky depending on the motor)
- Learn to kick or hip-flick a little as you start, to give the motors a little extra speed in the right direction. It doesn’t take much.
- Buy some sensored motors.
- Add sensors to your existing motors.
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Thank you for an in depth answer.
this sounds like the best solution, will try it and let know if helped
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wtf? obviously i want to see the damn board battery what the f*ck do i have a 50$ remote for if it doesnt even show the damn battery
how you gonna say that i dont need to solder anything EXCEPT i need to solder the main thing i have the remote for
To get you moving. That’s the main purpose of a remote, not to tell you your rough battery status. For that we have telemetry devices or even dedicated battery meters.
I never bothered to hook the cable up. just wastes more energy lighting up the LEDS for something that isn’t super useful.
Sometimes i think you could be someone that request a refund for free things or services that came with your order but didn’t work very well.
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so you just guess the battery percentage, probably wont work for anything past grocery store
Bruh…
Holy fuck. A remote is to make the board move.
A battery level indication can be on the remote, on your 'droid, on a gauge on the board, or in your pocket.
This is DIY. Do it yourself!
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“I just made my own electric vehicle. But, it doesn’t have heated seats and nobody installed them for me either. Grrrr”
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u can tape it on the V+ wire, who fucking care, as long as it touching, then it will work
i have one board that has no battery indicator method, no metr, no gauge, vx1 wire no hook up. BUT i know that boards goes 15+km, so i just never go pass 15km mark, its not that hard
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I got pelted with a June bug to the neck running over 30 and I thought someone shot me.
My favorite is when you run through a swarm of Peter nats, you can’t ever get them out your eyes!!
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Both of those things you just described, 100%, yes
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