I think its when you recharge your battery from very low voltage that would be a charge cycle. Not when you’re discharging it since you’ve completed the cycle once you lower it from its highest point to about 25% of the battery. I’m not sure, but I believe it’s because batteries would degrade if you are charging them from their low voltage state to their higher state because of their chemicals.
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Yes.
A typical round li-ion battery cycle is defined as a discharge from fully charged, 4.20V, down to its rated cutoff voltage, typically 2.5V, and then recharged back up again to 4.20V. It is a discharge/recharge equal to the rated capacity of the battery.
So if you have a 3000mAh battery and you remove 1500mAh that is 1/2 of a cycle. You would have to remove 1500mAh twice for it to count as one cycle.
Most of the big manufacturers set the cycle life of the battery at the point where it has lost 20% of its original capacity. That is, the rated life of the battery is the number of full cycles it can do (at a certain charge and discharge rate to certain voltages) before it drops to 80% of its capacity rating.
You can certainly use a battery for longer but the risks go up the more you use a battery and by the time you’ve lost 20% of your range using a particular battery pack you’re probably getting pretty frustrated with it.
Limiting the charge voltage and not discharging as far, i.e., not doing full cycles, can help to significantly extend the life of the pack. An example would be charging each cell to only 4.1V and never going below 3.2V. This reduces the amount of time the pack can run (shortens your range) but it could last much longer before needing to be replaced.
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Hmm you might be right. The bushings will compress a bit under shock. It shouldn’t cause a lock-up hopefully because it’s metal-on-metal not thane-on-wood. I will watch carefully for any scratches where the motor would contact the truck when the bushings compress.
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Thanks Mooch 
I appreciate it as always
**whoops didn’t realized I quoted something
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While waiting for my Spintend vesc to arrive, been using @Komamtb’s Flipsky’s Dual FSESC6.6, and it was working perfectly. Now, after installing Ubox and using it with Uni1 the behaviour is very different, which I do not like. Both were set up using FOC and have not tinkered a lot in vesc tool (do not have a lot of experience still). The problem is that now while standing on the board it does not move me out of place (even when just push the throttle on the remote to the max it still struggles), need to push a little with feet. And while not standing on the board and giving just a bit of throttle with a remote it still really struggles and even heard a strange “electrical” sound a few times (sadly haven’t recorded but will try to), which were not a case while using FSESC6.6. So does it really behave so differently on different vescs? How can I make it to move me while I am standing on it?
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I will wait for the experts to chime in I’m def not one but it sounds to me like your motors got detected as sensorless instead of sensored. If the vesc isn’t using the sensors you typically won’t be able to start from a stop without cogging.
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This means your sensored motors are no longer sensored, but sensorless. This means you have to kick push it or move it with your body. See if you can get the sensors detected.
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so does the fsec 4.12 take 50 motor a’s after all or not?
Fsesc is quite unreliable at higher amps. You have to be extremely conservative, especially with battery current max and motors. If you want a more reliable esc that can handle 50 amps, you can look into MakerX. But, it should handle motor amps… it can’t be THAT bad, right??
ive seen videos of it defaulting to 70 a’s and 180 peak after auto config
Yeah that’s vesc tool. Vesc tool doesn’t know or care what esc you’re using.
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That’s normally how it is for set up. My maker X retro 50 amp rated gave me 75amp for motors and that hard resetted after overheating. Its not worth the risk tbh.
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Shh, we don’t speak of such here. Sensitives are watching.
Edit: lol they flagged it.
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Newer VESC firmware supports HFI on a lot of ESCs that helps a lot with sensorless starting, but yeah this definitely sounds like it’s just running without its sensors.
@papryka do you know or can you find out for us what firmware version you’re running (should be in the firmware tab of vesc tool and there should be resources to find out how to know your fw version around here), and also can you check if the motors detected as sensored or sensor less? Should be in the FOC tab I think
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VESC Tool does know and care what ESC you’re using. Flipsky doesn’t add any of their ESCs to the configuration, so they borrow Trampa configurations.
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Hm this is news to me. I’ve used many ESCs and none of them had any sort of setting preloaded or properly limited.
Probably due to the monarchy of Tampa since its made specifically for their vescs? Just a hunch.
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Hehe yeah never used a trampa vesc. I’ve used torque ESCs, flipsky, makerx, stormcore and focboxes. None of which are trampa ofc
I was planning on getting trampa but it didn’t have dual esc. But I am looking at that new dual singles. I’ll probably get that after my dv6.