it doesn’t matter, u can have 20a esc side, and 80a motor side. u still get 80a on motor just on lower voltage
Same idea, take the lowest value because above that something is gonna blow up. If you’re using a flipsky cheapo VESC with a decent motor, use a low motor current even though your motor can handle more.
Motor current roughly equates to torque, for accelerating and going up hills. Battery current roughly goes in line with torque at high speed. When you’re at low speed, it’s the motor’s current capability that limits how hard you can pull, qne at high speed it’s how much power can be pulled from the battery.
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you and frame got a bit of conflicting info 
But if your ESC can’t handle 80A motor current then you shouldn’t set it to 80A motor current, that’ll kill it. ESC motor current and ESC battery current are two different specs
that’s a “if” question, of course u shouldn’t if the esc can’t handle that, but im just purely answering 
this question without specific condition
its possible to have higher motor amps than battery amps, as long as the esc is able to handle it
is that better?
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so the parts can take maximum 85A motor, 50A esc and 30A battery, what should i set them to
I think we’re still understanding the question differently. From the start he was asking about a situation where the ESC and motor have different capabilities
So that’s what I answered: how do you know which value to take when the ESC and motor don’t match? Take the lower one.That’s why I think this is wrong:
It does matter when you’ve got a smaller 50A ESC and a big 85A motor, that’s what the questions are about. You can’t set the motor amps to 80 and be fine just because it’s not drawing 80 from the battery, the ESC dies long before then
that’s why esc has two basic different value parameters, batt amp and motor amp. its possible to exceed esc’s motor amp value for a short time to not cook it. im not saying u should, but u can.
as for this question,
15a batt and 50a motor, per side
I’m pretty unfamiliar with wheel hubs and tires, to put 9" or 10" tires on superstars I need to widen them right? Also do I need any special hardware for using them with BN AT drives?
Nah like the question isn’t some weird case where you need a “well technically you could do x for a few seconds” type answer or something that’ll confuse a noob about getting 80A in the motor but at different voltages. There is a simple answer to the question of what to do with mismatched settings and it is to take the lower of the two.
If a battery and an ESC are different, set the battery max to the lower. If a motor and an ESC are different, set the motor max to the lower.
Edit:
But yes this is right if it’s a 2 motor setup. If it’s one motor and one VESC, set battery to 30A.
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sure, that will work perfectly fine. i wasn’t thinking in the new beginner point of view
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Happens. People have their info and goes with it. If it works for them, it works.
As for this, your motors has to be 50 amps or below, and your battery has to be split if you’re going with a dual esc set up. If you try to set a max of what your esc can’t put out, it’ll be like mine doing a hard reset after overheating, possibly hurting your esc.
Frame meant that if you have a pretty low battery amp, it won’t matter because it will still hit the motor amp that’s setup. Like a transformer of some kind.
This one you can find on the motor set up in vesc tool. It should say motor and not app.
For this one, it’s what I said earlier:
“If you try to set a motor max of what your esc can’t put out, it’ll be like mine doing a hard reset after rapidly overheating, possibly hurting your esc.”
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understandable, now i just have to play the guess game with my chinese battery packs that someone thought was a good idea not to label any useful information on
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Ur battery has a bms discharge, if u set batt amps too high, worst case would be bms shuts off then u get no brakes.
This is personal experience
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Careful with that now. If you can ask the manufacturer about the battery, that would be great. Otherwise, you may have to play Russian roulette with that battery.
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No, they are not.
Trampa’s bearings aren’t actually metric - they’re FUB bearings, with nominal dimensions of 3/8 x 7/8 x 9/32 inches.
Do not do this. pushing on the inner race to seat the outer race has a good chance to cause the balls to dig into the races, causing rough spots and hurting the life of the bearing.
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i have model number and manuefactorer name but couldnt really find the battery i assume they were custom made not mass produced
They are mass produced, just with chinese cells instead of those big brands, my best guess would be it is a 10s3p that can do 30a max
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Those JDL Chinese batteries…
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Shhhh, they are not high drain cells. Let’s not give people ideas that they can salvage old JBL speaker cells to make a pack out of it 
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