Talking about connecting a BMS not a bulk charger
@leon maybe you can help
does anyone know if the bioboards 6396 motors contain a rear bearing?
i noticed on mine it seems like a bearing race is left at the back as if the insides have fallen apart
pic incoming
edit
i can feel inside there is still a rear bearing underneath that race but it looks like the race itself may be the leftovers of a dead bearing?
I am putting a Trampa Vesc mk4 in a board with a loop-key.
I would like to use the auto-off feature and roll to start to wake it back up again.
I connected the power switch wire to GND and roll to start works, but I don’t like that the ESC is OFF by default when I plug the loop-key in. Is it possible to set the vesc to auto turn on when it gets power? And only use the roll-to-start when waking the board up after it’s decided to turn off after a period of being idle?
Tbf though, the roll to start seems to work so well it might not matter. I kinda just want it now as a backup option for powering the board back on 
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so def that is a dead bearing and the issue i have had is caused by this
how can i remove the race and replace the bearing
anyone know what size it is?
Does it look like it’s stuck in with some retaining compound? My brain is wired to do stuff the janky way so my try would be something like a sturdy set of pliers where you can force the jaws outwards and try pulling up. Failing that, two flat head screwdrivers under the lip of the race on opposite sides
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nope
in the past i have seen heat as a good method (thermal expansion) but i guess for a motor thats not a good idea
Actually the screwdrivers might cause issues if the only thing they’re levering on was the top of the race, it would probably need a fixed surface to push against. For the size, it should be easy enough to measure the inner diameter it needs to fit in when the existing race is out, along with the diameter of the shaft that runs on the bearing. The two measurements would make it a lot easier to identity
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i can measure the outer diameter easily but the shaft is stepped i think so cant measure that easily
motor wont start it just makes weird noise? it seems to work if i push the board
and if i spin it and try to stop it it stops very easy and makes that noise again
and its not the sensor since i dont have any
well i got the race out and i believe the bearing size is 6701
i managed in the process to ruin the hall sensor pcb (the wires became unsoldered) to replace the hall sensors do i just need to solder them back or is there more to it then that? thanks
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can i extend the hall sensors wires (cant solder without) and then solder to the correct pins on the hall sensor pcb to get it working again?
thanks
except the temp sensor, the rest should be okay to resolder and still works.
don’t trust me tho, its 02.19am here, my brain probably not working
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why not this??
also anything else i should know before resoldering?
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its something to do with two metal wire having a fix distance so the reading is accurate of the electrical sigal. others probably know better for ur motor
'bout to sleep now nite
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nite
If it’s a standard thermistor sensor then reasonable wire lengths don’t matter since the resistor will have a 10k or 100k room temperature resistance and the tiny resistance added by longer wires won’t affect that.
If it’s a thermocouple then it shouldn’t matter either as the current is tiny and the sensing is done by reading a voltage. If it’s some other type of sensor then perhaps it might matter.
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