yes, i get about 17-24Wh/km.
Though it will increase with speed and terrain.
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That’s fine. It goes higher when being pushed more. If you’re not pushing hard, it should be near that.
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My motor makes weird noises. It should be sensored but when not pushing to start it makes this weird clicking sound.
HFI?
Anyone know the OD of metro 155s after being stretched?
In a previous question a month or so back I asked about my board suddenly breaking for half second intervals or stuttering while riding which nearly threw me off. I ended up following the advice and redoing my phase wiring just in case there was a short anywhere, but turns out that didn’t fix it. I just tested it for the first time today and it turns out one motor starts smoothly, like it should, but the other I have to throttle it decently before it becomes “unstuck”. It’s not a physical resistance as far as I’m aware, the wheel spins easily by hand, but I need to throttle before it suddenly spins up harder. I tried jumping on the board to see how it would ride and when I slowly pushed the throttle I wasn’t going anywhere but it all of the sudden my board made a noise that sounded like a sort of siren. Not sure what that could possibly have been and I’m not sure where my problem is, whether it’s my ESC or motor. Any ideas? I’ve got a Unity and my motors are TB 6374s.
If you switch the motors, does it switch which side does that? Or, do both sides?
noob question time, I got a set of brand new 100mm TB wheels, got bearings from my board with the original spacer bearings are R6-2RS from Trampa and the spacer is 10mm wide. I checked the inner lip on the TB wich is 10mm too but can’t seem to push both bearings fully into place, I even checked if the bearings should fit fully and they should fit (unless my measurements are wrong)
note I have 9.525mm axles
so my noob question is what bearings width should fit on those ?
edit: bearings fit spacers are 13.5mm for some reason thanks Trampa for the extra 3.5mm 
I’m thinking about getting something like thesehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091YWMFGS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A793D3B497JF&th=1
Have any of you fine esk8 specimens had any experience with this brand? Would this be a good battery for a emtb?
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IMO, there’s no reason to use lipo batteries in a MTB - The main advantage of lipo batteries is their high power density - you can fit a lot of power into a small space, which makes the really nice for small light stealthy builds. But MTBs generally aren’t small, light or stealthy, and have lots of space because of the top-mount battery box, so that’s not needed. The same size and weight of li-ion cylindrical cells will give you more capacity (range), and last more cycles before wearing out.
This in addition to the fact that I’ve never heard of that brand, so I would be skeptical of the ratings and quality of the cells and construction.
I’m definitely heavily in the li-ion camp though, so my opinion is obviously biased.
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Had the same problem with my vertigo truck. Tramps packed in spacers that were too long so i couldn’t out the nut on 
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Why am I not shocked at this point…
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I wouldn’t really buy a battery from an unknown brand. But for mountainboards, I wouldn’t know tbh. I’m currently using my 10s10p pack that is under my deck (no battery box of course).
Alright👌 guess I’ll get a couple more of the Ovonics.
This sounds like a sensor issue to me. Were your motor sensors detected properly when you did the motor detection wizard?
What firmware version are you running?
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you mean this?
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Yep ty
friend of mine has a trampa with this conenctor for 2x 6s lipos)
we are changing to a li-ion 12s and i am confirming that i can plug an xt90s into the positive connector to use just the other connector for the main battery leads?
thanks
hope i explained it well
If I understand you correctly, you want to repurpose one of the ends as an AS? That should be totally fine, since it’s just a series connector and essentially functions as another connector in your loop.
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