Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Do you see PPM at 0.00ms at this moment?

No; it says 1.00ms

Damn jenyus right there, I had the issue mine would not fit under the gear due to clearance, that solves it right that

I am thinking about turning this into my first ESK8 and looking for opinions. I am cheap and doing all of this on a budget. I have already built a 10s4p battery… now I am buying the rest of the board, components, etc. I know this backwards per @b264 standard advice and for that I apologize :smile:! My only excuse is that I am left handed and fight fire for a living so backwards is sort of what I do.

https://www.atomlongboards.com/boards/40026-atom-all-terrain-drop-deck-longboard-39-inch

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You can. As long as you have the right parts.

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using llt smart bms. noticed that my cells flicker like this sometimes. anyone know what these colors represent?
is it something to be concerned about?

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I think that just means those are cells are being drained since they have a higher voltage than the rest (it’s balancing, if I’m correct). And the red/Grey sections show the highest and lowest voltages a group has in your entire pack

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The enclosed is the hardest bit of DIY I recommend you start by looking at a deck and encloser combo that works together

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Thank you, Do you have any recommendations?

I suppose that I should say, I don’t mind if I end up in shitty DIY for this as its more of have fun project than a serious esk8.

I’d like to second this, unless you’re a professional esk8 builder, the enclosure is by far the most difficult part. I’d also recommend an enclosure and deck combo that’s expressly designed for this, like from @eBoosted or @BigBen or @glyphiks depending on where in the world you are.

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The red and grey cells are just indicating your highest and lowest cell, nothing to be concerned about unless they are really far apart.

Your voltage spread there looks probably fine, though the low cell is a bit too low for comfort, especially since most of your other cells are nearly perfectly balanced.

so how should I fix it? should I just leave it plugged in and see if the bms balances it out?

That’s a good first step, yeah.
If that doesn’t help, a next step would be to manually charge that one cell group back up close to the others and see if the BMS will keep it there.

Does ~15Wh/km make sense for pneumatics? I did a range test of my 620Wh battery on my eMTB, and I got 25 miles, which was considerably more than the 19 I was expecting based on the calculator. Plugging the range back into the calculator gives me 15Wh/km, which seems too low for pneumatics. Tires are MBS T1s at 45PSI, distance measured by GPS, total weight of about 180lb. Average speed was about 11mph, although max was 25 and I wasn’t trying to be gentle on the throttle. Maybe the actual battery capacity is larger than advertised?

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mine is ~30wh/km. I wish I got that range on my board with a similar battery and setup. but then again I got an average speed of like 19mph so that might be my own fault lol.

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How do I turn off the roll-to-start feature? I haven’t been able to find it in the vesc tool. I’m using the stormcore 60D

Personally I use a Kali protectives invader helmet for mountain biking as I love the ventilation and a sector nine channel full face similar to a tsg pass for longboarding (got it for cheap as they were phasing out a helmet manufacturing). https://www.backcountry.com/kali-protectives-invader-helmet?CMP_SKU=KAPJ01L&MER=0406&skid=KAPJ01L-SOLMATBLA-XSM&mr:trackingCode=60147AA2-9291-EB11-811C-005056944E17&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=m&mr:adType=plaonline&iv_=

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What would you guys recommend for removing the iron dust and flakes from the magnets inside your motor bells? I want to battle harden mine but they’re used, and it seems like a pain to get it out.

Wipe as much out as you can with a rag, then go after what’s left with some packing/duck tape, or maybe a tack cloth.

Anything minor that’s down between the magnets isn’t really worth going after, because all that will get held down by the epoxy.

Obviously if they’re just CAKED with crap, it’s best to get them down to where you can at least see metal through the layer of crap, maybe by some vigorous application of compressed air or a brush, or q-tips.

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