I would still install a loop key even if you plan to use exclusively roll-to-start and auto shutdown. The loop key doesn’t have to be obvious or sticking out in a conspicuous place, though.
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wdym?
true! Though the guy designing these seems to have done a pretty thorough job of testing them, imo
I’ve heard good things about boa wheels as well
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Just all the steps of bringing a product to market tend to have a certain delay stackup.
- prototype manufacturing ← we’re at the end of this stage
- production manufacturing
- batch shipping
- incoming inspection & quality control
- incoming testing on the abuse rig
- updating website & taking orders
- packaging
- shipping
- revision 2 (repeat full process)
Doug seems like he’s doing it all right, and the end product will probably be excellent. But there’s no avoiding the inevitable problems - manufacturing issues, website issues, shipping delays. That batch of 200 won’t be perfect. 90% good part yield would be stellar for a first run. As far as I know the factory is untested for similar products - so there’s an element of risk there too. Prototype manufacturing is not production manufacturing. And I’m sure he’ll have things he’ll improve for the 2nd full batch. The 2nd batch is where most of those kinks will be worked out, and where there should be plenty of good sets for those that want them.
Just saying - take the proposed schedule and double it. Usually a safe bet.
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I don’t think I can afford that. There’s no way to make it work from here?
I put one coat of that already
What are the requirements for a vesc to support roll to start and auto shutdown if any?
The ESC hardware needs an onboard antispark/power_switch and needs to be set up to do roll to start.
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One coat is too few for sprays. I usually do a minimum of 3 for everything, and that’s sometimes barely enough to cover the original surface.
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So that might explain why it scratches off so easy?
Not entirely, but it would had been wise to add about 2 or more coating since one isn’t as strong. Which is why it’s recommended to add 2 or more.
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Oh my freak… can trampa get anything right??
Yeah, this did it for me. I’m gonna stop ordering from them…
Edit to show what I ordered…:
I even told them what I was building and asked to send me the right size. Why is it 20mm?? At least the belt fits. That’s the only thing they got right.
Edit 2: time to DIY
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@Battery_Mooch (or anyone else) is there a good battery chemistry comparison guide somewhere?
i.e. LiPo vs Li-Ion vs LiFePo4
I read the first couple search results, but it’s more anecdotes than science.
I haven’t seen one, sorry.
First thing you should look for, to know whether it’s a good guide, is a statement saying that LiFePO4 and LiPo are just another type of Li-Ion battery. 
But, I’m pretty sure they all perpetuate the idea that they’re all completely different types of cells.
You could try Battery University. There’s a lot of outdated info there IMO but they had some basic stuff on chemistries and they don’t get caught up in all the silliness about ratings and other hobby-related topics.
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Yes, doing some reading now. Appreciate the tip!
Do you know, for example, what the Molicel P42A chemistry is?
Looking at the SDS, it mentions cobalt and manganese as cathode materials.
It would be nice to understand which battery university description is valid for that cell (https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion), if this article is accurate anyway.
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Sorry, I don’t.
The MSDS I have is for multiple cells (with different chemistries) and mentions four cathode materials and that each cell uses one or more of those materials: Lithium Cobaltite (lithium-cobalt oxide, LCO), Manganese, Nickel, and Aluminum.
The P42A is not a LiPo, using just LCO, so that means it uses the Cobalt from some LCO and mixes in either Nickel+Aluminum (to create NCA) or Nickel+Manganese (to create NMC).
The MSDS you have only mentions Cobalt and Manganese?
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Molicel’s applications page specifically mentions NCA and the P42A in the same section, so there’s at least a tentative answer.
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im trying to get to my motor and attempting to take the motor pinion off but it wont budge
heated it up a ton (with a torch)
made sure there were no grup screws.
pulled and tried to lever but it wouldnt come off
should i just keep pumping heat into it?
you just need to heat the shaft where the motorspur is.
do you have a gear puller?
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no gear puller sadly
is there any other tool i can use?
Just buy one. It’s like 5-10 pounds or so…
You can damage the motorspur or motor when you try to just brute force it with the wrong tools!
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