Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Do I just put that on top and it will be good? The kilz primer seems easiest for me to get in Canada but it comes in a bucket? Will this work or could it be I didn’t clean the surface of the metal enough? Or if that was the case I would see peeling rather than it coming off from scratching?

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Cleaning the metal should be the first thing to do to make sure your paint doesn’t get easily peeled off or removed with something light. So you got this correct.

The primer is mainly to cover the paint in a clear coat to protect it from being scratched. Think of it as a shield. It takes 24 hours to fully maximize it’s value. But I recommend a double coat so your paint can last very long.

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So from here the are parts that are scratched off, should I apply my red spray paint just at those spots or coat the whole thing before applying this. There seems to be variation in the kilz primer. Which one do I get and does it come in a bucket or spray can?

For that, I would spray it, and see how long it takes to cure. For example, the spray can takes about 2 hours to cure properly.

As for the kilz primer, make sure it’s clear. It can be either a can or the bucket itself. Make sure it says interior/exterior. For obvious reasons :slight_smile:

I see there are a lot so find one that works as a seal. The adhesion looks correct.

Something like this:

Edit: make sure it says “sealer”

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Do you happen to know the difference between kilz 2 and 3 and both don’t specify that they are clear but it seems as if they are? Do I apply them with any wide paintbrush or it must be something specific?

Think of it as “upgraded product”. Different formula and time, less smell, how it works, etc. But if you’re adding it to your Esk8, you don’t need a wide brush. A simple medium sized one will do wonders. Just make sure you don’t let it go into the motor can opening and you’re set.

If you see one that says clear sealer like what I sent, that’s the one you need.

Btw, kilz 2 is garbage.

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I can’t find kilz clear anywhere in Canada or any other clear primers. There are only “tintable” and white ones. kilz clear is so easily right there at the US home depot but not for me :sob: what does tintable mean and can I use that?

Tintable means to deepen or darken the color added on top of it. For example, a light green will look more greenish. You can use it, but you need to re-add red.

If you can’t find clear primer, try krom clear. Or see if there’s a red colored seal primer. It sucks you can’t find one there.

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I can’t find that either. I can’t easily find people using clear primer as a topcoat instead of just underneath as a primer. Is there anything else I can use or I’m doomed to watch my paint get scratched and weathered away :sob:

Clear coat type spray? Or everbrite protective coating? These could be helpful. You can try searching “good clear topcoat protection for paint sprayed metal” and see your results as well. There should be some product you can find.

I live in the US so these are easy to find on my end.

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I would suggest stripping all that, then cleaning everything thoroughly with soapy water followed by a degreaser, then hot clean water, then a hot air dry (to dry things fast so there’s no chance of rust on any of the steel bits), then applying a base coat of an etching primer (follow the directions on the can closely), then your desired paint on top of that.

Pretty much all spray paints take at least 48 hours to fully cure and become completely hard - they’re hard enough t handle in as little as a few hours, but it takes a lot longer for the last bits of solvent to fully evaporate.

There is no magical top-coat that will make your paint stick better to the base metal. All it can do is make the top layer harder and more scratch resistant. If your adhesion is lousy in the beginning, there’s nothing that can be done except start again.

In a perfect world where time and effort and money were of no import, I would recommend stripping the anodized finish off all the parts, etching them, and re-anodizing them again, leaving the pores open, then paint directly over that with no primer.
A freshly anodized surface is quite rough and porous on the microscopic level, which makes it an ideal starting point for paint. The problem is that the process of making colored aluminum parts involves filling all those pores with dye, then sealing them shut, which makes the paint stick way less well.

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Have you tried automotive clear coat? They’re quite tough, and UV resistant as well.

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Hi
I’m finishing a build which consists of:
-hummie deck
-10s5p
-2x 6374 motors with 15 mm belts
-ONSRA 115 mm wheels

I’d like to avoid making holes in the enclosure and installing the on/off momentary switch / loop key and try the roll to start feature of my legit unity. I read on here that the push to do that need to be “a very strong push” and I’m afraid that with such an heavy build the thing would be much more difficult. Any advice for this particular case?

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I swear, every time I feel like I’m done getting all the parts and can start putting my board together, I realize there’s some new shit I didn’t notice lol

Does anybody know where I might find an adapter for this JST connector. I looked online and couldn’t come up with anything.

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Edited: Answered thanks to b264

The sensor wires are technically optional though.

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Those do look incredible. But I also know how those projects go - I wouldn’t be surprised if they were available for mass consumption around xmas.

Not to mention, buying gen1 of any product means you’re a beta tester.

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Thank you! I really appreciate it. I just ordered a couple, but wouldn’t be surprised if they emailed me saying they’re out of stock lol (they’ve done that to me a couple times).

I’m curious though, what would I do with the sensor wires if I didn’t connect them? Just cut the wires and heat shrink the ends or something like that?

I just heat shrink the ends and seal it up so dust doesn’t go in there.

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No harm in trying. Connect it all up and test it yourself, it’s highly dependent on the particular setup. Hole for an on/off switch is easy though, you just need a 12mm drill bit.

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