Didnt even think of this, thank you Brian.
Makes my SWD idea look like a dumpster fire.
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Slightly better, but if possible, try to cover the wire with solder at that point. You don’t need to make it large, just enough to cover the gold pin you’re soldering onto
If my image looks large, it’s because this is a 10 guage awg on a XT60. Don’t mind the size.
Edit: after a certain argument, I want to clarify that this isn’t the solder joint for the connector, this was specifically pictured to show that he should get the solder to cover the gold pin slightly.
If you want the real photo of how it looks, pm me.
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Thx!!
Hey guys need some help. Getting this on my focbox unity.
I haven’t ridden in a while. I was running HFI becaue one of my motor sensors broke.Now I and now can’t seem to get anything set up.
I need help getting HFI back and running and figuring out what this light means
Red lights are bad. Check the terminal for faults. Type “faults”
thats what shows up
That red joint def looks slightly cold/sketchy
Plug xt60 pair together.
Vice/clamp opposite pair of what you’re soldering so it’s a fixed position. Panavise/any vice is good, if you don’t have one of those a spring clamp with something on top to weigh it down… etc.
Tin wire, slightly tin internal cusp of xt-60 terminal.
Then grab wire by it’s insulation with a small spring clip, pliers, or old callused over nerve damaged hands that don’t feel heat if you have them.
Clean your iron tip (wet sponge or brass), dip in flux after cleaning if available, slightly wet your tip w/solder so there a small ball/blob on the tip, then apply this to the outer shell (so inner face) of the xt-60 connector until it melts the inner tinned portion which will in then melt the tinned wire as you press it down with whatever you’re holding it with. Or apply iron tip to top of tinned wire, either way works well enough but if you apply it from the outside of the xt-60 bullet you always know there’s enough heat that you won’t have a cold joint once the chain reaction of melting happens.
& To the person you’re replying to, the amount of bare wire/insulation stripped off is a bit much for comfort. Butting your wire up to the terminal & marking the insulation w/a razor blade or w/e works very well until you get the hang of how much to take off with wire strippers.
Alternatively, on freshly cut unstripped wire, slightly tin the end without stripping so your strands stay together, then strip the entire depth of the terminal and shove it all the way in (if the wire diameter is small enough to do so. I think 12awg fits just right in an xt-60, but it’s been a little bit.) Then apply heat to one side face that touches both the wire and the terminal and feed the solder wire into the other side until it nicely flows all the way through the wire, coating the terminal, and sucking all the way to the side heat is being applied on.
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I’m no expert, but that looks like a hardware problem. SOL
I would replace the hardware as a next step.
so new ESC. Any suggestions?
How do you use it, what is your budget, how do you ride, what motors, how much do you weigh, do you prefer range or power, and how many string / what voltage is your battery?
Well, I’m running 12s. It’s a mountain board. Right now I weigh 195. I was content running my my motors at 130A.
Motors are sk8 6374 192kv.
Batrieries are 12ah turnigy lipos
don’t worry about budget.
Do you use the skate for work commute or is it a toy?
Do you have a heatsink or is the ESC inside an enclosure?
I mean id like it to be reliable enough to go to work but I ride for pleasure.
I have a heatsink
I mean id like to not spend a ton of money on the ESC since I had only ridden on that unity for a bit
And definitely not flipsky haha
Is it the Infinitysink?
nah its just an old heatsink from a burnt up flipsky 6.6
not really familiar with new esc’s
Turn audio off, loud fan running.
Too damn early for me to be away and my phone is shit for focus in videos. Being held in my vice lol.
Because I’m dumb I missed the most important part of letting you see how everything goes together at the end, it’s blocked by the clamp. Anyways, I’m not actually touching the wire or the inner face of the terminal. Just with a slightly tinned tip applying heat to the outer side of the terminal, inside melts, tinned wire sinks right in, hold until cooled. My hands were shaky as hell too.
That’s all a bit exaggerated in what you need to be doing + i was using jank Hobbyking 63/37 instead of good kester solder. When I’m actually working and not trying to shoot a video like this, all of that can be done in about 5-10 second and w/o the cleaning or flux. But if you’re getting joints like the ones you’re posting, obviously need to slow things down and do them like in the vid.
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This is 12 awg btw.
For 10awg, to make a joint fairly perfectly like that, not tinning the cup terminal, just tinning the wire fully, then with a pair of hemostats clamped on top face of wire and bottom outer face of cup terminal, heat applied with tinned tip (so liquid solder bridges the small gap) on one open side, probably the side the hemostats come in from, and solder fed from the opposite side, once again until you see it nicely coming thru to the side heat is being applied. Or just do the same as the video w/clamps & have less shaky hands. Many ways to make great joints, no excuses for craggly joints.