Looks are deceiving. This is why I told you to “don’t mind it”. That’s not a cold solder, nor is it sketchy. That is the wire. And the wire is properly soldered on the XT60 (and there is a reason why the XT60 is used).
Try not to misjudge what the image shows.
That caused me so much trouble and caused a massive spark to happen on my board. I like to make sure my wire is tucked inside the hole properly.
Appreciated the advice however.
Not sure how many XT-60’s you’ve soldered if you don’t know that the female plug doesn’t have depth holes.
I’ve been soldering XT-60 connectors since they became a thing over a decade ago now, deans and bullets for much longer.
There’s simply no reason that the way the wire in the picture is oriented would cause trouble, or a spark on your board. If that happened, it’s like because you had a cold or oversoldered joint.
Also, 10awg can’t fit in the hole as far as I remember, and you shouldn’t be trimming it to do so. My stash of 8-10 awg is for some reason missing, I’ll post a better video of a joint the same as the above w/both sizes.
Back to the way that joint is set up though. There’s quite literally no difference between a joint just on the bisected cup vs one being tucked inside. The mechanical retainment of a properly soldered joint is effectively the same despite the slight difference in total surface area. Dean’s connectors were the go-to for the longest time, you know.
And not to pick on you - perhaps your joint is fine and there’s just a bit of unsightly buildup, but it would be bad for a noob to look at that and think that’s what he should be aiming for, as he may just end up with a cold joint. Sheen and fillets are always ideal.
So does it have a depth hole, or it doesn’t? Because this would not make sense otherwise. And yes, you are correct, it doesn’t properly fit the XT60, which is why it looks like that. It’s not hard to realize that.
Just wanted to be clear that I’ve done a lot of these solders. However, I told him that his previous one was worst than what he had now. At least he can try to cover the work with solder and then proceed to use heatshrinks.
But that solder that you did sadly failed me. Nothing against your ideals.
Ehh, scratch that on the females not having depth holes maybe. All of my Hobbyking stock since they started adding the grey wire covers with them don’t have them. Older Amass variants may, and no point in discussing counterfeits.
Acknowledged since it does have it.
…what?
I said the females specifically. That implies that the male have them and the female do not.
Here’s pictures of genuine amass w/grey cover housings, genuine amass circa 2012 Hobbyking, genuine turnigy, and counterfeit whomever.
All males have holes. All females do not. In the end, they’re literally just 3.5mm bullet connectors. Just like boobies, they come in all shapes and sizes and you can play with them in all the ways you want to.
Perhaps you got a different assembly line batch or something.This is what you said. That’s not what I have. It is however, on amass XT60 females. Just not on yours.
I’m beginning to feel like this is going nowhere. Just note that you shouldn’t look at my image and assume something. You can ask if it’s cold or not, but there is a disclaimer below it.
So, perhaps you’re missing a point. I have three different samples of XT-60’s made by AMASS. One is old stock Amass branded. One is old stock TGY branded, which is turnigy paying Amass to put their branding on it. One is grey cover adaptable, which is what you have not used. I understand that your XT-60 females may have depth holes.
However, do you get the point… that they literally do not matter one bit and will in no way affect any part of the circuitry in what you’re using them in. Not even slightly. If they did, AMASS, the creator, would not be making anything without them, and all of their officially licenses Hobbyking new stock lacks them.
I further don’t understand the point of posting a picture that looks like a poor job of soldering, and then saying, “disclaimer, it’s not actually a poor job of soldering it just looks kinda bad”
Like… what is the point in doing so lol? Either way, you can make 10awg and 8awg joints on 3.5mm bullet connectors (including those in XT-60 connectors) that look like a nice, properly flown joint with fillets and sheen to match, unlike your clumsy non-homogeneous joint. When I find my wire box I will do so, and I’m sure many others can point out the reasons your joint looks bad despite the fact it’s a gauge with diameter large than 12awg in a nicer and more concise way that I’m able to.
This is not helpful to a noob looking to up his solder game lol.
Instead of throwing shades, try fitting a 10awg on a XT60 perfectly. I would love to see this play out. Make sure it looks better.
I have stated more than once that I will do so as soon as I’m able to find my 10 awg. Do not worry my child.
if it looks like mine, I would be sad.
what do you think? I was looking at dv6. What can withstand my 130A motor setup?
DV6 might not do 130 amps per motors. Although I’m only pushing at 80 amps per motors, I’m not disappointed with the DV6. It’s a good esc.
Have any new MTB style decks come up in the last few months?
yeah thats what I was worried about
What’s an average expected consumption for thane & pneumatic wheels?
How much do you weigh? How many hills are around you?
Let’s assume no hills, all flat.
Let’s assume 200 lbs total rider weight.
so many other variables but
tb110 prob 15wh/km
6 inch 25wh/km
8 inch 30wh/km
these are rough guesstimates based on my consumptions
others may have different numbers
Very true. And I appreciate your input. Part of the reason I ask, is that the esk8 calculator range calc is useless without a ballpark accurate consumption number.
It would be good even to have loose estimates for different setups, rather than using the default 11.2 Wh/km. All the other inputs you can check your equipment.
