ow yeah you’ll also need an antispark
loopkey or antispark thingy
if you want the motor holes on the left lmk
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Pretty much. Shorts are only an issue if you’re in a seawater environment, and then you have all the extra corrosion that comes with that too.
The real risk of water to motors is corrosion. Bearings, stator laminations, magnets, all are susceptible to corrosion if unprotected. Once the outer nickel plating is breached, the magnets are especially vulnerable. Bearings with rust instead of balls, don’t roll very well either.
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I hope you mean laser-cut steel or aluminum, because acrylic ain’t gonna cut it. (pun intended.)
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Yeah, and that $17 bottle will last you several dozen boards’ worth of coating.
4223 is good for MR60 connectors where they meet phase wires, and stuff like that
The only thing water does inside a BLDC motor is shorten the bearing lifetime (those can be changed) and destroy the sensor assembly, if present.
I suggest to not use sensors, and if you don’t use them, that means you don’t need to worry about that.
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Honestly doesn t look like the most difficult part, i ll try to copy others design obviously ahah
I don t know much about electronics, still lurking the forum atm
Yes we make 30+tons machines, we waste so much material i could prob make hundreds every week just cutting it on the “wasted parts”
i ll keep it in mind thanks!
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Fair enough. When I hear someone say “laser cut”, I assume generic 30-60w CO2 laser cut plastic, because that’s what’s readily accessible to the average hobbyist.
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If you were in the market for my kind of build where would you buy?
Most of Flipsky review i found were quite old, is the situation improved? Because that s the cheapest option for sure.
I found Maytech has a better reputation but cost quite more… which brings an other question… why the exact same stuff is much more expensive (especially shipment!) on the Maytech website compared to Aliexpress Maytech official store?
I m from Italy btw
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Flipshit is the cheapest for a reason.
Good
Cheap
Easy
Pick any two. In the case of flipsky, cheap and easy, not good.
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Asking this too!
Maytech vesc go 50€ on AliExpress while flipsky is like 40€-50€ from day to day.
Isnt Maytech the best Chinese option and really good quality?
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Honestly any 4.x reference design vesc isn’t anywhere near the “best” option for anything but price.
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Anything that uses the same FETs as the 4.12 design is going to be underperforming anything using better FETs.
But I’ve spent a lot of time on single drive 4.12 skates. There isn’t anything wrong with them. Except they start thermal throttling after you hold the trigger in all the way for 20 seconds. But at that point, you’re already rolling pretty fast.
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First of all, I think i already read hundreds of your posts, thanks for all you have thought me!
I was aiming on a vesc6 based esc, there is one by Maytech SUPERFOC6.8, can it be a viable option for a single 6374 build?
Those use the same FETs as VESC4.12 and will probably work fine. I would not turn “battery amps” over 25A but for a budget setup it would work fine I’d imagine.
Use the biggest motor possible if it’s single drive. 6374 minimum TB6380 even better
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Any of the vesc-alikes will work to some degree. It really comes down to what you value most:
Performance/power
Reliability
Cost
There are two or three types of MOSFETS (power transistors) used in the different types of vescs and vesc clones:
D2Pak
,
surface mount,
and directFET.
D2Pak fets are the chunky ones you see on 4.x reference design vescs. They’re cheap, but the problem with them is that all the heat goes down into the board, where it’s hard to get rid of. The surface mount ones are a little better, since they’ve got less plastic between the chip inside and the top of the package, and the directFETs are fantastic, because the heat can go straight up into a heatsink without going through plastic at all.
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Okay, so based on a couple of questions I asked earlier, which you guys answered, I created this list of parts. Please let me know if it is any good or if I could go with something else to save a little money. I was originally going to go with an mboard’s 10s2p battery, however, I’ve read that their batteries are not the best, so if there is anyone who could build a 10s2p battery that would be nice, but I’m also not really sure if that is the right configuration of a battery for my build. Also not sure on what esc to get. I’m doing a dual motor build and I would like to stay on the cheap yet reliable and powerful, so somewhere in the middle for an esc. Here is the rest of the parts.
Deck
Motor
Pulley system
Trucks
Motor Mount
Wheels
Remote
Battery indicator
Enclosure
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Bigben’s enclosure for the 9two5 deck is more or less made for a 12s4p pack spot welded, a ~3cm space to fit a daly bms, a flipsky antispark (roughly same width) and two trampa vescs. The double stack version might even fit 12s7p for all i know
The only thing improving speed braking is how far are you willing to risk the longevity of your batteries.
I consider 10A peak regen charge/cell to be a good middle ground for my 30q’s.
You can absolutely do -50 battery amps/motor but you’re in untapped territory there.
The motor amps are very strong at low speed. Like, wheel skidding strong.
It started raining today and almost ate shit behind a work van because both my back wheels locked up
Oh and, i just checked their site. Sv4 seems like half the pcb of a dv4 at like 75% of the cost. Some do prefer the possibility to change a blown side, but dunno
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Same for flipsky 4.12?
Currently hab 25A x 2 dual motor setup
Only weigh 65kg
I