Followup question, can I simply plug these into my JST balance plugs on my LiPos and plug the charger into the leads, and this will keep the cells balanced and prevent it from going past 4.2V?
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seems like it’s not to charge but rather equalize the voltage through out the cells I doubt it’ll prevent the cells from exceeding the 4.2v li-ion limit as it’s for multiple types of batteries
I would say that is not inductive kickback, but rather the switch-mode regulators trying to keep the lights/voltage on when the supply voltage starts quickly lowering. I’d say that is pretty typical.
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Has happened to a bunch of people unfortunately.
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Okay, thank you! Then I don’t have to stress over it 
The power cables going from the vesc to the battery. xt90 or xt90s? Loopkey is already present
(not my board, picture was just fitting)
assuming the wires in white part leads directly to the loop key, then it doesn’t matter, but human always forgets, so just put xt90s there incase it was disconnected for whatever reason 
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Yes.
Regular power cables from the esc connect to the box, the box inside has the loopkey connected. I just saw multiple board having another xt90s where the esc connects to the box.
Just like lee did here. Though it doesn’t have a loopkey.
In the grand scheme of a board the cost of XT90S is just a rounding error, and I actually prefer making and breaking the connection compared to regular because the female is slightly chunkier than the non S. Up to you, but I just order more S connectors than I need and use them for almost everything
cost isn’t the problem. Just the use case in this exact situation. Is there a benefit of doubling down on that cable with the xt90s or not?
I’ll defer to anyone else with a better answer but I don’t think so unless the battery is removed for charging you’re not gonna be unplugging it much, and it would only make a difference if you had forgotten to remove the loop key (I think)
Hi all, This is the most noob question I ever did but I really canºt figure how to do this…
How can I create my own post on Esk8 Mechanics category?
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Hi @DiogoQ and welcome to the forum!
You can do it after spending some time here. (It’s basically a spam protection)
You’ll rank up pretty fast, opening the possibility to create a thread. Go read some topics, search around, engage in conversations etc.
The amount you can reply is limited as a brand new account, so don’t be confused when you’re unable to comment after a while. (Will resolve after 24hrs)
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Alright thanks! have tried to look for my specific problem but couldn’t find any info.
I have Evolve 107mm wheels and Red Bones bearings.
For the 3rd time already, I changed the bearings for new ones just after a few miles, like 10 miles. (Only happens in pulley wheel, single motor).
Because they literally explode!! completely recked! Also, after checking the wheel it also melted onmy the bearing housing…
I have electric skateboards for more than 5 years, never seen such a thing happening.
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A friend of mine has a similar problem. Abec 97mm wheels. He has to change his bearing pretty often, also single motor on an evolve.
It’s not quite as severe as yours though, he has to change them every couple hundred miles i think.
Have you tried other brands? I’m a big fan of zealous bearings.
The nut of your wheels isn’t too tight, have you checked on that?
Hi, thanks for the answer.
No, not yet, I’m thinking of going balls deep and try OUST MOC 9. Red Bones are not that bad, I’m surprised because this never happened to me before and I don’t see happening to much people either.
I’m using washers truck side and nut side, spacer etc.
Not sure what you mean at the end. I tight the nut to the point the wheel doesn’t move side ways. Not over tight for sure but also not lose.
Never heard of them. Them not telling the customer what material the balls are made out of is not good imo.
Just if you checked your axle nuts, not that they’re too tight and are pressing on the bearings.
This is the answer ↑
Also keep this is mind when buying the moc
If no MET-OL is purchased along with the bearings, the proper lubrication maintenance schedule with MET-OL is not followed, and/or other lubricants are used, the OUST bearing warranty will automatically be VOID. Also if the bearings aren’t purchased directly through Oust bearings then no refunds will be given. This matter must be taken up with the company where the original transaction was made.
If you want to try out zealous, they are only 20 bucks and have integrated washers/spacer.
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Isn’t that the point of equalizing the voltage though? As long as one cell is under 4.2V, the highest cell will be brought down until all cells are at 4.2V, at which point the charger will switch to CV mode because total voltage would be reached.
and here i am, NSK608Z is only 4HKD retail price each 
wholesale is probably even cheaper
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Would this: https://www.amazon.nl/GRIFFON-SC1102-universeel-vloeimiddel-175227/dp/B00OGM0WR4 be good as soldering flux?