Giant wires like 12AWG and bigger seem to be more susceptible to that in my experience, and especially the high-strand-count silicone-insulated variety (sometimes called Superworm) that you really should be using.
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So I know long battery wires are bad when your on/off switch is a loopkey, but how about if we had two battery wires, with one longer than the other, and the loopkey was on the shorter battery wire? Would that still have the same inductance effects? Say for one battery wire, it’s 30cm long, and the shorter one is 10cm long.
Long battery wires are bad for reasons unrelated to whether you’re using a loopkey, antispark switch, or no switch at all.
Long motor wires don’t matter much if any.
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Ahhh, I thought there was only an issue when the esc was switched off with a loopkey and long battery wires
Yeah, I’ll guess those are my only two options. I’ll just have to get over the fact that I think it looks kinda stupid, at least in comparison to how slick it looks when mounted on the same side. I did some measurements and figured out that I need 326 mm overall length for my motors to fit on the same side, which means TB 218mm won’t fit either.
Enclosure is this one by Eskating.eu: ABS Enclosure 38x165x320mm - Electric skateboards parts by Eskating (hehe I know you’re not his biggest fan 
)
I don’t have a deck yet, I love the looks and specs of the Loaded Omakase, but don’t know anywhere I can buy only the deck. But I’m keeping an eye on my local version of craigslist for any good used boards/decks.
For an ABS enclosure, you’ll probably need to sand it and put a layer of fiberglass over it, otherwise it will break at the boltholes.
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If you haven’t bought it already I’d advise against him as well, the guy is a dickhead
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Yeah, that too 
For what it’s worth it seems much more stupid in theory than when it’s actually on the board (imo). I did it for a while because I had caliber IIs and an extra motor and ended up kinda liking it.
Maybe this belongs more in the esk8 confessions thread though…
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Single drive is perhaps the most stupid looking, but even it is very good if done correctly. Just maybe not on the eyeballs.
Is it fine to charge a 14Ah LiPo at 8A? It’s well under the 1C rating, but at the same time that seems pretty darn fast compared to most chargers for boards out there. It’ll really only be used for top ups during group rides and stuff, normally they’ll be charged at 1.5A.
The spec sheet for the battery will probably have a specific charge current that they specify the battery lifetime (number of cycles) at, that should give a clear answer for the “best” current. With something as big as 14Ah it’s probably at least 4P right? The justification for such a high charge current is that you’re really only sending 1/4 of the current or less to each cell, so unless it’s an unusual design where they really prioritised capacity over charge and discharge handling it’s probably fine
That middle joint definitely looks cold/needing flux.
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Another random question for y’all.
For gps modules, like the one @DerelictRobot uses for the robogotchi, is it necessary to top mount these?
Do the fiberglass enclosure and wood deck provide too much interference to put them in the enclosure?
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doesn’t have to, but doing so will get better signal / faster gps lock
fiberglass, no.
wood? very little with the thickness that we use in esk8
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Sweet thank you.
I’ll top mount it for the faster lock then.
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still require other stuff, i.e. being outdoor, u aren’t standing on it, clear sky (thin / no clouds)
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Yeah that makes sense.
I’m assuming it will pass just fine through nylon 12 right?
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yeah u good on that
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They’re LiPo pouches, so it’s 12S1P (internally there may be more P groups, but I doubt it from the construction). Usually for these cells they’re rated for 1C charge, so for 14Ah it’s 14A. It should be safe, but I don’t usually see chargers greater than 6A around except for the Lacroix ones so I thought I’d double check.