How do you guys think these cells would fair in a 12s4p battery? (on 100mm thane)
- fare
Autocorrect 
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The Mooch test shows they’re aight
Mooch
Looks like you’ll need to set the bottom cutoff around 3.2V
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I’m not entirely sure on how to interpret these graphs, but compared to the Molicel 20700A:
–The Sanyo would be the better choice right? Since the Sanyo appears to have higher voltage (and AH) for each constant current tested (though marginally and only at a few points)?
Also why 3.2v as a cutoff specifically?
These are the only cells that seem to be in stock atm for a decent(?) price
- alright:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
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Hi, I’ve got the Apsuboard V5, I know cheap beginner board everything generic. It uses a 14s2p 60a max discharge battery with 60v to compensate for the weak dual hubs (300w each).
My thought was would adding stronger motors actually increase my range since they would need to work less?
I’m usually riding in the 25-35kmh range sometimes 40 if the road is really smooth and it feels save.
Any thoughts/input would be really helpful.
First post and thank yall in advance 
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I mean theoretically more powerful hubs would heat up less, and so they would be slightly more efficient. But not by a lot, and it sounds like you are already getting really good range out of that battery. (For anyone wondering, it uses 20R cells which have a stated capacity of 2Ah)
I don’t think upgrading the hubs is worth it if you want more range. Upgrading the battery / adding an additional one would definitely work though.
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And then you use more power to acelaratr harder and more wind drag as your at higher speed for longer and you range is less than it was before.
Best way to increase range is reduce wheel contact patch, ride smother and more general on better roads don’t use brakes you only regen 10% of what it takes you to acelarate back to that speed.
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Who brakes looses anyway😅
Thanks for the quick answers.
Is it still possible to put a 2nd battery in parallel if the first one was already used for 200k.
I know I’m gonna need similar/same cells and everything but I
Got these 2 guys included with a purchase. The right one says metr and looks like a GPS logger, the left one doesn’t say anything but shows up as “metr 255” or some similar number on Bluetooth when plugged in to uart.
What is left boy for?
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I heard I shouldnt combine a used battery pack with a new one because the weaker will draw power from the newer one
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Both are Metr bluetooth modules. The left one is an old version with a different nrf tho and it won’t work with newer firmware versions.
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got a real weird issue
i was giving someone a test ride on my board and suddenly the puck starts beeping away when he changed speed modes (no lights just rapid beeping)
then he lost most of the torque (just drove real slow)
he finally got back and the metr wouldnt connect.
i connected to the vesc tool and reset the firmware and everything seems back to normal (spintend vescs) this is the second time this has happened and i still cant work out what the issue is
if anyone can help…
check if the puck receiver is plug in all the way?
gonna open the board up later and check
thanks
puck vibrating non stop means its disconnect from the receiver, i have never heard it beep except when it was in pairnig mode and paired to a receiver, so im not sure about the beeping part
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i thought vibrating with red flashing lights means disconnect?
also it was more rapid beeping then when its disconnected
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yes, but i don’t think it beeps when its disconnected
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Thank you sir! So with the right one, I can program the vescs using vesc tool and Bluetooth like I’m used to doing? This board is for a neighbor and has some old focboxes in it.