I mean, you kinda just made my point for me. I have yet to see an esk8 running 190kv motors at anything above 13s, so I would deem 18s to be out of the “reasonable” range. And at 13s, that comes to ~10K, which is significantly lower than 18K.
I guess it all comes down to the definition of “reasonable”.
First time I touch these… Can someone enlighten me on order of hardware?
3 speed washers
1 spacer
Bergmeister wheel
Janux mounts
I think torque board clone truck
Let’s do a (hypothetical) thought exercise:
What are the potential consequences of skating in the rain on wet, dirty streets? Assuming your board didn’t break or fail
slipping and having to deal with a dirty ass board (totally not um from experience 
)
I did this by accident the other day and my power switch (I have a toggle switch that’s connected to the BMS, it doesn’t physically disconnect the battery but it stays in position and isn’t a digital button) locked me out just around the corner from home. I took the board apart and it was still behaving weirdly (turning on and refusing to turn off afterwards, but unplugging the button worked) so I left that part dry on a radiator and it was fine the next day
Maybe I got lucky that that was the only thing that freaked out, I’d take everything apart and pat it dry asap, and anything that’s safe to be heated give a bit of love to
traction problem, which include acceleration / braking and also turning
water getting in ur eyes, each blink causes 150ms of 0 visual, the more u blink the less time u see the road
rain mist lower everyone’s visibility, so if u normally ride in traffic, don’t
this
So much this
I’m using 60/40, I’m not a psychopath
It won’t reset. You would merely start getting red blinks instead of green blinks.
lipo batteries arrived today and have sticker that says only 30% charged, please charge to storage asap. how long do I have?
have everything but charger and port as they’re both delayed lol
They’ll keep. Just leave them alone, preferably somewhere cool (room temperature or a little below).
Just a quick follow-up to see what a cell’s 50% charge voltage actually was…
I took the 30Q I capacity tested earlier (3036mAh) and discharged it at the standard 0.2C rate until I removed 50% of the charge (1518mAh). I let it rest for one hour and then measured its voltage at this 50% charge level = 3.735V.
So definitely close to the nominal voltage but that 0.135V difference (in the middle of the discharge curve) from the 3.6V nominal voltage is hundreds of mAh for this 30Q.
Bottom line…nominal voltage is confusing as hell.
confusing as hell is trying to do cell math in watt*hours instead of amp*hours
too many FOCing variables, need advanced calculus degree
At least Wh tells you how the cells actually perform though (if not using the useless nominal numbers). 
Anyone know where I can get a BMS harness for an LLT 12s bms stateside? I would prefer not to have to buy crimper, connectors, etc. I just need a one off
maybe this?
I thought I could easily find the answer to this question but my searches have come up empty.
What happens at the ESC if a single phase lead to a motor becomes disconnected? Just cogging/vibration and, possibly, increased current in the other two phases? Would it shut down, perhaps depending on the motor temp or current in the remaining two phases?
If the latter, does it happen gracefully (coasting) or are you launched into low earth orbit from the immediate and full braking?
Do different ESC’s possibly handle this scenario differently?
just cogging and vibrations (really angerous though as while accelerating it can vibrate and chuck you off)
happened to me and couldnt figure it out for like a week
Oo that looks promising. I measured 1.5mm between each pin on the LLT bms; anyone know if that will work?
**wait I just remembered the LLT BMSes are weird and don’t have 13 pins (I think more like 16 or something) with gaps between even 4 or something
Yeah unfortunately that cable I sell wont work. I’m pretty sure that the LLT BMS uses JST XH (2.54mm pitch).
