basically 48v is jibberish left over from lead acid. 48v is the equivalent of 4s lead acid. for li-ion it means nothing, but chinese have made a called this a ‘‘standard’’ but it doesn’t mean shit.
you are better off relying on the S rating rather than the voltage when looking at BMS’s from aliexpress for example
At this point I am happy to say that I actually understand that there is no 48V battery, that the voltage is a multiple of the cell voltage and that it changes depending on how much charge there is in the battery. phew.
See, the thing is…what I want to do is try something a bit different with my build:
I want to use a single wheel hub motor (600W/1000W 48V Elektrische Roller Hub Motor Rad mit 11inch CST 90/65 6,5 Off road Reifen|Electric Bicycle Motor| - AliExpress) and powertool batteries (was thinking these, as they seem to match the motor voltage Greenworks Battery 6.0/12.0 Ah).
I assume the battery is a made of Samsung 30Q cells (3.6V, 3Ah) in 14S2P for the proclaimed 48V/6Ah and 7S4P for 24V/12Ah, which means 50.4V when fully charged and thus handleable by that ESC, no?
No.
14S is 14 * 4.20 which is 58.8V and needs a 71V controller.
It might also be 8S/16S LiFePO4 which is 29.2V / 58.4V, I think that’s more likely.
But either way, this looks like a bad battery to use, because there are not enough details available about what’s inside or even what chemistry it is or what the series count is.
It’s a much better idea to have a battery built for you. People like @pjotr47 or @Acido or @tinp123 can build one for you.
Aren’t Samsung 30Qs 3.6V?
Well I guess if it’s 4.2V/cell, it’s probably a 12S battery.
Most of their other batteries are Li-Ion, so I’d assume they are no different…but as you said - without knowing the internals of this thing, maybe it is not very smart to use it.
all Li ion batteries are 3.6V 
LiFePo4 are 3.3v
LiPo is 3.6v OR 3.7v
these are nominal ratings btw
That is their “nominal” voltage which identifies their “chemistry” (their type) and where the battery spends a lot of time when discharged very slowly. The charging voltage is 4.20V though.
Wh of that battery pack is 259.2 and i suck at maths 
bro same
I at first considered having an enclosure and battery made by eboardsperu.com.
But the more I thought about it, the more the idea of using power tool batteries appealed to me. Especially because I can have a couple of them charging at home/work and simply swap them rather than having to plug in the board and waiting for it to charge.
And if something breaks I can just get a new one without having something custom made.
charging voltage means 100% battery basically. you can charge a bit more (not recommended), or a bit less (this increases the cell’s cycle life)
nominal voltage means ~50% of the cell.
this is far simple-er. trust me
if you live in austria there is no point buying from him. cells in the US are more expensive and buying from EU vendors will be much cheaper. Alan does make exceptional packs though, just not the guy if you don’t live in CONUS
Simpler, yes. But it takes longer.
To be honest…If I wanted “simple” I would just buy a prebuilt board and call it a day.
I want to try something new - this comes with challenges, benefits and drawbacks and while I really, REALLY appreciate your advice, this is the route I would like to take to go about this.
Maybe I am just a bit of a moron that can’t really take a good advice, has to fail miserably and then think “oh man…should’a done what he said.” ^^
no way. just get a fast charger. a 6a charger is like 30euro from aliexpress
i really don’t recommend buying a battery from china. buy a second hand one here on the forum or go LiPo.
this works
No, they are 4.20V
They are sometimes 3.6V in “ebike jive” aka the land of lies, but you never know the truth. Those aren’t engineering specs, they are marketing crap. You can’t base engineering decisions on that.
I second this suggestion, trust us
I realize that it is SIMPLER. And I trust you completely.
But…have you ever had this, where you wanted to do something and your mother told you it is a BAD idea, but you just felt like you really had to do it? And then you did and it turned out meh at best and horrible at worst, but you are still happy because you got to try that thing out that you always would have wondered “what if”? ^^
As I said earlier, I am really happy to get this input and advice, but I am not doing this for simplicity’s sake. I mean…the simplest thing would be to just buy a pre-built board. Or just get a deck and a kit - I know maxfind for example sells one that actually even let’s you change the battery pack.
But to me, being able to ride the thing is not the only and probably not even the main point of all this thing. It is more about building it, overcoming the obstacles and THEN riding that experiment, expanding and learning from it and maybe at some point translate those learnings into a second build.
I hope this is at least somewhat understandable. I guess it IS a bit stupid to try to sort of needlessly reinvent a wheel and making it worse, but I guess for me it is as much about MAKING that wheel work as it is to actually use it then.