Thx for your respose! I watched the same video ;D
When I pull the crimp it doensn’t budge.
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I saw some videos about solder vs crimping. Crimping provides a more flexible connection. But making a good crimp connection is also required then ofc.
A high quality crimp done properly can be just as strong and just as conductive as a soldered joint, or maybe better in some cases. The BIG reason they’re used so much is that it’s a fast, easy method to get “good-enough” connections in the field, without the need for all the soldering equipment. This means it’s much easier to do in non-ideal circumstances (e.g. up a radio mast, or knee deep in crap in some underground junction box where you don’t have your trusty Weller handy.)
Also it’s easier to automate at scale. Crimping machines can produce hundreds or thousands of crimps an hour.
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thank you! can’t stop learning about these things
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Could my esc be reading voltage wrong? Esc and davega show 41.7v after charging but my multimeter reads 42.2v…
Yes, DEFINITELY. Empirically, I’ve found the VESCs to be the least accurate thing when it comes to battery voltage. Even left and right sides are frequently showing different values, if you have two sides.
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Another thing I’ve noticed a couple times if that if your VESC battery reading suddenly becomes off by like 3V or more, when it was closer before (like 0.3V off) then in both cases that’s happened to be, I had a DRV failure within about 20km later. So at this point I’d be extremely worried about DRV failure if I saw the battery voltage suddenly become significantly more inaccurate than it was before.
But 0.25V to 0.5V off is pretty common in my experience.
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I’ve put 4 cycles on it with the davega monitoring voltage, and it’s just off by 0.5v. I thought my pack had suddenly gone out of balance but its just reading it wrong. I don’t see any other oddities with the vesc besides the brakes prematurely stopping at about 3mph, which I’ve noticed with single and dual motors on it.
That sounds normal to me. You can adjust your battery cutoffs by 0.5V to compensate if you want, or just not worry about it
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I dont feel like opening up that esc enclosure, it was a massive PITA to get it closed. I’ll leave it. It’s been riding fine for the past 20 miles so I’m not concerned.
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If it works, then don’t fix it.
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Anyone know what poles need to be set on the vx2 when running meepo hubs on a vesc? I’m getting the wrong speed and distance read outs.
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20 poles
10 pole pairs
(depending on what the remote wants)
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Okay, total noob here with a maybe kinda stupid question:
first of all let’s say I am using a single motor, so I could use this ESC:
I want to mount the ESC onto the board in its aluminium case with no extra enclosure around it.
So…how do I use a remote with it? If the ESC was in a separate enclosure, I’d just slap that receiver cable into the socket, take the receiver onto the enclosure and be done with it, easy peasy.
But with this…Does the remote connect to the onboard bluetooth? Do I need the receiver and just stick it inside the case? Doesn’t the aluminium block the signal? If I have to plug in the cable, can I still close that lid?
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most remote we use have a fairly strong comunication. Metal won’t block you signal: i’d have to be many cm thick. the absolute killer is carbon fibre, that will cut your signal faster than you can spell out WAND (you’ll get the joke later).
Also i wouldn’t buy that ESC, anything flipsky related that isn’t motor related is meh.
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Thanks!
So I can’t actually use the on-board bluetooth for the remote?
I thought about getting that ESC because as far as I understand it is just an VESC 6.X with a case around it, no?
I like the very small form factor and the really well enclosed case of it, that’s why I thought it would be a good idea! Also, I need it to handle 48-60V (still deciding which) and it kinda ticked all the boxes…
That ESC can not handle more than 12s Li-Ion (44.4V nominal, 50.4V fully charged). The 60V rating on their website is an absolute maximum, not a safe rating.
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remotes don’t connect via bluetooth. they use something very similar to what RC cars and planes use, via the PWM port on the esc. some remotes like the flipsky vx1 use the uart port of the esc.
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bugger! but thanks for that info, that was VERY helpful!
well, I will go with a 48V battery/motor then anyway I guess and keep the 60V stuff for the next, bigger build - when that time comes, I will ask for recommendations!
I guess going lower on the power is not the worst idea, considering anything above 600W is actually illegal to use here anyway…
There is no 48V battery. You have to look past the “ebike jive” where a volt is not a volt.
Depending on what chemistry you choose,
LiFePO4 are 3.65V per cell
cylindrical li-ion are 4.20V per cell
lipo are 4.20V per cell
48V is not a multiple of any of those numbers, and it’s a lie. You have to dig deeper past the “ebike jive” and discover the actual series count / voltage the battery is.
TL;DR: no such thing as a “48V lithium battery”
— however you can have a “13S / 54.6V battery” – which delivers most of its energy around the 48V mark – and that’s probably what they’re referring to. But your ESC needs a rating that’s at least roughly 120% of your battery voltage – 54.6V in this case — or a 65V ESC. A 60V ESC won’t work for that.
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