nah they just have road dirt on them. Only put like… 60 miles on them? some minuscule amount. Soapy bath it is.
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Should I leave these numbers as is or bump them up a bit, haven’t had any overheating issues just don’t want any.
No tbh…my friend rides them and he is a racer hahaha addicted to speed and he never mentioned vibrations 
he rides his boards at 55-60 khm when its downhill.
My onan hubs start to vibrate at top limit of my boards, but not that much and i think its bc of worn sleeves or bc of abusing them hard like i do.
In general you shouldn’t touch the temp settings unless you A) have a good reason and B) know what (and why) you’re doing. They’re set at a level that makes it very difficult for a user to damage anything. If you increase them, that safety goes away.
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Awesome thx!
Good to know, A and B do not apply to me. I will leave them alone. Thank you!
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A little help please. I’m using a meepo hobbywing 6.5 esc which outputs 30a per wheel that was running on 10s2p. I’ve now got a 12s3p boundmotor battery pack. Will the esc work on 12s3p? I saw on the meepo blog they were running a similar setup with their upcoming roadster board.
no, if a hobbywing was design for 10s board, then plugging in a 12s battery will pop it instantly. just get one of the makerx dv4 and convert over to using vesc tool for more customization (yes, it cost quite a bit with everything, but its well worth the price imo)
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Always use lock nutz, bro, always!
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They were hard to get mine in, I took the axles off and it was a lot easier
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Thanks for the heads up. The only resin why I wanted to stay with the hobbywing is because it’s tried and tested in the field and I like the remote. I don’t know anything about makerx dv4. I will look it up.
I’m running a single drive off a DV6 currently. I’m using both UART ports, 1 for remote and 1 for BT module.
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Thank you! Do I just plug evereything in and it works then?
There was some weird stuff I remember on set up. I ran the detection wizard through the BT module and had a VX2 remote reciever plugged into other UART port. The remote didn’t seem to work properly so I just switched it with the BT module and it was perfect. BT module still functioned when I swapped them over . All functioning as it should currently.
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Alright, I will see if I can get both the davega and the BT working. My remote is PPM so I probably could get both up and running. Thanks a lot!
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Hello everyone:)
today I got my crimping tool. So I started crimping but I would like your advice about it.
I made this crimp and as you can see there is some uninsulated wire left (I would use heatshrink ofc) and I also couldnt see the wire made it upto the looking hole. Would it okey to use it or is it a really bad crimp?
I also ordered some 4mm2 terminals because they would fit (due to the seller) 12AWG. But this is a 6mm2 terminal and I found it a bit hard to fit in without hurting the small wire strenghts… Would 4mm2 not be too small?
I followed this crimping tutorial:
I wouldn’t worry too much about the exposed portion because you can always add some heat-shrink or electrical tape around that, but not being able to see wires in the looking hole might mean that the wire slipped out as you were crimping 
If you try to pull it out and it doesn’t budge, then it’s probably safe.
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is crimping just using friction to hold the wires in the holder? i’ve always wonder why people would use that over just flooding the holder with solder and sticking the wire in to join them together
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Apparently if you look under a microscope, crimping creates such a good mechanical bond that it can outperform solder. Allegedly
Personally I find it difficult to get a good crimp. I have one upcoming board that uses crimped connections for the battery, but honestly I would try to avoid it if possible 
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