Is there any legal part that says that a vesc hardware must run vesc firmware? Besides ackmaniac (what happened to that anyway?) And unity i don’t really see anything in the works.
Why no one do computer magic no more?
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Yup what @Timmy says is true in general negative or gnd is the outside but not a guarantee so best to check with multimeter to be sure.
Not that I’m aware of… I know apple has a thing where you aren’t supposed to run a hackintosh cause os x or mac os is only tested on the specific hardware they build… It actually says apple branded hardware in the license I think so I make sure to put an upside down apple logo on any hackintosh 
I don’t think it’s against the spirit of the thing though to have different firmware competing on the same open hardware in 3D printing or quadcopters there are various open source firmware available for the same hardware (even if the hardware isn’t open design)
Believe there is a crew working on stabilizing the vesc firmware in terms of having stable releases for regular everyday riders and beta versions for the more advanced and or less risk averse who want to test new features.
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D-shot is just a replacement for pwm for sending the throttle signal through in a digital format and at a higher rate typically (usually sends the signal like 600 times a second instead of like 50). I think for receiver compatibility and ease of use pwm is used in the vesc but is generally more susceptible to electrical noise than dshot600 (everyone in quad land uses d-shot now basically). D-shot can also be used bidirectionally so with one wire it is sending signal both directions the esc can let the flight controller know the actual rpm the esc is getting the motor up to (according to the esc at least) and the flight control can filter out vibrations around that rpm for the quad to fly itself (really nothing behind the VESC to communicate back to in this case but just explaining why it’s a thing). The vesc itself would be the same just difference in configuration for control input so along with adc and pwm we would have d-shot as an option I guess? I dunno though most receivers don’t support outputting d-shot signal directly so you’d be taking a sbus or other proprietary serial protocol and having to convert that first… Could probably lift the code from betaflight for some of that but like @kook kinda said more trouble than its worth here.
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Also speaking from my own diy receiver perspective it’s using an arduino nano or nano-rf equivalent so the cpu is at 16MHz with avr architecture processor and haven’t really seen a reliable d-shot library for arduino whereas I can use the servo library to generate a pwm signal pretty easily with the writeMicroseconds function to tell it how wide to make the high pulse.
CamScanner 06-19-2020 17.34.50[3805].pdf (1.4 MB)
(pictures included in the pdf)
15cm length with bending included. Though keep in mind that this bending length should be for both sides, so not as in your picture where everything is laid out at the edge, but in mine (PDF) (due to cabling cabling issues otherwise) 18 cm in total pack width (each 4.5 CM width) and 3.2 cm height (with just the battery, and not the cabling height) + 2.5 cm height if cabling is included
What do you guys think of this parts list?
-
helmet
a. troy lee designs stage mips + wrist guards and pads -
deck + enclosure (flex?)
a. demonseed 42 (stiff)
b. alter wedge -
battery (flex?)
a. 18650 12s5p doesn’t need to flex i think -
ESC(s)
a. ??? Flipsky 6.6 or TB (I know FS is considered dogshit here, but I’m not sure of the TB esc either so I’d like to hear what you think would be a good fit for this build) -
drivetrain & trucks & motor mount
a. 15mm belt, 16:62 == 1:3.88
b. Boardnamics 270mm hanger + Caliber II baseplate
c. BN idler mounts -
wheels
a. TB AT or Bergmiesters -
motors
a. 2x TB 6380 190kv -
remote
a. I like the hoyt puck or trampa wand -
other
a. antispark switch - ??? (I hear there’s not good options)
b. battery meter - ??? (Haven’t looked into bluetooth connectivity yet, depends on the ESC I think)
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Q. which of the Maker-X esc’s is closes to the Neobox V4? looking at the Jedbox’s specs it claimed cont current as 70a-80a, and that was the V4 version. The V6 Maker-X on the other hand, is onlly 30a cont. current…i always though V6 meant more continuous current,. but with the Jneod boxes the V4 claimed to be much higher…can somone enlighten me please
Sounds mostly good to me. The TB vescs are fine just 4.x hardware so the mosfets can’t deal with quite as much current, but you are saving a tiny amount on space using a 2 in 1 and greatly increasing the chance of needing to replace the 2 in 1 since 1 side fails you replace the whole thing. Depending on how far along TB/Dexter and crew are on the 6.x version of their hardware I might hold out at this point, but would ask them how long the wait is for production units.
Regarding flex I would account for some flex even with a stiffer deck you want it to give some to eat the vibrations from wheels and the road. For wheels the TB AT I have and can say are pretty good but you’ll want to balance the wheels if running at any sort of speed (above 15mph you’ll feel heavy vibrations if wheels aren’t balanced). Enclosure needs to account for some flex at least and battery just needs room to move if/when the deck is flexing a bit.
That is the mini. It is the smallest esc you can probably find and the ratings follow suit.
There’s also a mini plus rated for 50A continuous and the sv6 for 100A.
Keep in mind those are battery amps by the way.
Motor amps are limited by mostly mosfets rating and the heatsink they sit on, but should be 1:1 with battery amps
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Thanks. For a thane street build, which would you recommend I go for? I’ll be running dual 6374 170kv (the new Flipsky motors) and will have a 12s3p battery. I’d consider the Vesc 4 version if it was adequate. Uphill torque and stopping control are the most important things for me, and im not too heavy heavy either (70kg)
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you can use a loopkey as antispark
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Helpful advice, I agree independent ESC’s would make the system more maintainable, I’ll check with Dexter about the latest hardware. Do you have a recommendation on how to balance wheels?
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Someone here made a thread
I used some small wheel weights I found on amazon and shaved them in half with a dremel to add the weights inside the plastic hub of the at wheels, basically need them opposite of the valve used to fill the wheels to balance that out.
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After nearly completing my first build, I ask myself why one would need bigger motors than dual 6355 for a streetboard (non pneumatic/not off-road).
I “only” have a 10S3P 30Q which I configured to “only” 50A output, and I still don’t dare full throttle, especially from 0-30kmh.
What would be the advantage of dual 6374 or 6380 be then, if there is any (and thus a bigger P battery to) ? More torque? This thing goes >30kmh any road as steep as it gets where I live. Speed? Okay… I only hit 45kmh, but thats arguibly enough for regular joes
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Probably not for you and probably not for me, but when hill climbing and or more weight you can and probably will overload things temp wise if riding for long enough in hot enough weather. That said for quick runs or just casual slow cruising on urethane you’d be hard pressed to stress anything out.
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So you would just get bigger motors, so that they don’t overheat as much?
Yeah i’m only 65kg, lucky me 
Without a Bluetooth module, is there any way to collect and read data from the VESC?
Don’t know when my firefly nano is finally here and am curios about things like estimated range (avg wh/km) top speed avg speed etc
Yah and can just get more torque without pushing things to limits or risking smoking things but yah similar weight class here and cruising around Chicagoland area it’s pretty much all flat land so even on single drive I only stress it out with the pneumatic setup on hot days (air vents in enclosure for vesc helped a lot stays safely under 70C now)
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I heard these are very effective! I’ll also add a small aluminum heatsink on the MOSFETS, sadly I don’t know how warm my dual FSESCs 4.12 get…
So far they run fine without any issues for like 100km… will see about the next month’s…
How did you manage to keep it water resistant?
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I have:
12s3p
6354
190kv
16/36 gearing (2.250)
Maker-x dv4
Amps:
Motor 55 (110 total)/ -50 (-100)
Battery 25 (50)/ -15 (-30)
Battery is limited because 3p and too much punch limits my range. Raising the total by 6 amps reduces capacity by 700mAh out of 9000.
Brakes are weeaaaak at speed 
need 4p before i do manage to kill myself in traffic
With 83mm wheels the throttle is unmanageable. Way too much for any circumstance. If i was any lighter than 80kg i would burnout.
With 100mm the throttle is just enough to surprise any car waiting behind me at a stop light and reach 40-50km/hr rather fast.
You need to mirror most jst plugs before connecting them buut… it works. I changed nothing inside my enclosure in 700km
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