Opps…
Yeah I’ve only ordered LLT on ali took a couple weeks to come. IDK about the website tho 
We all do but china stuff take a while to come 
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Abs is an obsolete material to print.
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210Kv + high ratio
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Hi there, first post on this board. Noob question thread is exactly what I need!
I use a Neptune 15 BMS with a Flipsky Dual FSESC6.6 Plus.
My problem ist: The power button of the VESC does not turn off the Neptune BMS as I want it to do. So my BMS is always on… what I dont want it to be. The Neptune can connect a seperate on/off switch but I just dont want to have two switches for the one board. Thats just dumb.
I check the Buttons if I can just connect them but sadly one is a normaly open and the other normaly closed (not sure about the technical term in english).
How do other people (yes, you guys) solve this problem?
Thanks in advance. Have a good one!
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You could bridge the switch pins on the FSESC so that it is “always on”, and then rely solely on the BMS’s switch to turn the circuit on or off.
This only applies if you have your ESC wired to the discharge leads of your BMS. If you have it wired bypass, then this wont work.
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Anyone got any trips & tricks for using braided sleeving?
I don’t have the fancy kind that shrinks as you heat it. So far tried melting the ends with a lighter to stop it from fraying over time (not sure how well that will hold up), and am using electrical tape and then heat-shrink over top, but wondering if there’s a better way…
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I never found a better way to use it until I got the fancy kind that shrinks. You can put a cable tie on the ends but it’s fugly.
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3:1 glue heatshrink is perfect for sleeves. Normal heatshrink always simply slides out
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Anyone know how to setup input on the slave vesc when the remote wizzard fails due to this bug? Both ESCs are FW 5.2. Cheap focer 2.
Edit: I redid motor detection after app, and then both vescs seem to respect input.
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Switch from BMS is NC while the Flipksy antispark is an NO.
I soldered some extra wire to the antispark and connected it to the BMS (since I already drilled a hole in my battery enclosure for that switch).
Sooo it kind of does what it should… it turns off/on the BMS. So check for that one.
But the FSESC does only turn on every second time… It just flickers the LED, makes a sound that does sound very lot like a spark somewhere and does not turn on.
Turn it off and on again does fix the problem. But I am very worried about that state where the FSESC does just flicker an does not turn on.
Can anyone make a ryhme out of this?
The best way is probably to connect to the second ESC directly with USB and reflash it.
But … you also should be able to use CAN forwarding to connect directly to that ESC and reflash its firmware
If an ESC will take new firmware, but then on reboot still has the old firmware each time, then you need to upload a bootloader to it.
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(post withdrawn by author, will be automatically deleted in 24 hours unless flagged)
That’s not safe. My rule of thumb is you want at least 360 full degrees of turn after you feel the nylon start to bite.
You could probably get by with less but I definitely wouldn’t want to go under 180 degrees.
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I’ve removed the speed rings as the bearings apparently have them built in and this has helped.
I’m using a set of meepo hubs for a diy board. Which sensor wires do I connect up there only seems to be five? And what amps should I set the hubs too? I have a 10s 3p 30q can I set that to Max battery amps as well?
Thanks for your help guys you are doing gods work,
Depends on what you want to achieve and how heavy you are.
I have mine set to 30-45A per Motor, depending on the weather. On hot days i put it to 30, on cold to 40/45.
40+ amps does make them heat up faster, remember that.
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What’s the best way to remove blue thread locker from a bolt? I have a small torch. Could I burn or melt it off? Would that weaken the bolt? Some kind of solvent?
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just blast it for a good few seconds, its should just melt right off
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