You can’t go wrong with this stuff
West System 650 G/Flex Epoxy
Best all-around epoxy I’ve found. You can stick inserts, do hanger axles, battle harden motors, seal enclosure holes, make fiberglass, and even probably make a deck with it if you wanted to.
The size selector on the Amazon listing is broken. Select the “UNITS” size which is 118ml
This is a 24-hour cure polymer
Is it bad to only load one side of a dual motor setup for extended periods of time? If I get a flat on a driven wheel, I can replace the wheel with a non-driven wheel easily in minutes, but then that motor side will have no load and be constantly constrained by traction control. Would that actually damage anything though?
No, it shouldn’t damage anything. Might make things act a little weird, but it wouldn’t be dangerous to the hardware.
If you can disconnect the motor from the ESC, that would also be an acceptable solution, as long as you make sure the motor and ESC wires can’t short out against eachother.
Removing the belt is a good way to be able to push a board with a dead battery home without the extra losses slowing you down as well.
That’s good news at least. It’s on my eMTB, so the cables are weathersealed inside the enclosure, and there’s bindings so it’s not really possible to push, so I need at least one motor to maintain braking and acceleration or I’m going nowhere.
I don’t know a lot about SLA charging but I can’t think of a reason why they say you must charge at above a 0.1C rate…for any battery chemistry.
I suspect @b264 is right when he says it’s a customer service concern and not a battery one.
Do epoxy pigments affect fiberglass layup or should I be fine adding some pigment to my epoxy (which will be used to add layers of FG to a deck)?
I haven’t heard that it does but I’ll wait to see if someone else has any ideas.
I think the glass is most of the structure, and not the polymer. You’re not pigmenting the glass. …?
Yeah, I’m planning to pigment the epoxy before applying to the fiberglass. I just realized I never considered if there could be any potential issues, and I don’t believe I’ve seen it done much if at all before
No direct experience, but here’s some info from the big brands:
“Adding pigment to epoxy should, like everything in life, be done in moderation. Without exception, adding pigment to WEST SYSTEM Epoxy will weaken the cured mixture to some degree. Because of this, we suggest you use very small amounts of pigment, about 5% by weight. As a result, thin films of colored epoxy are somewhat transparent. It usually requires several coats to make the film opaque.”
" Our Epoxy Paste Pigments are pure, dry, colored, pigments dispersed in in an epoxy resin blend. They are pourable, easily measured, and contain no solvents, and may be blended with one another to produce additional colors. Since they are dispersed in an epoxy resin blend, they react into the system and do not change its cured properties. The proper way to use these pigments is to add them to the resin (Part A) side and then add the hardener(Part B) at the correct ratio for the epoxy system being used."
I have used System Three’s paste pigment, but it wasn’t structural.
Hmm I guess I can always just use un-pigmented epoxy then add a an additional layer of pigmented epoxy if I really want…unless I get some more paint…
Thanks for the input 
It should be fine as long as you follow manufacturers recommendations. West System suggest 5% max I think. Have done it a bit without any issues.
I got some totalboat epoxy and from what I’ve seen there isn’t any technical information on their page about pigments and coloring about how much to use 
Anyone use totalboat epoxy with pigments before?
In my experience, epoxy is epoxy is epoxy. They all have slightly different properties, but in general they’re pretty similar in behavior unless you get out into some real esoteric stuff.
There are only so many different combinations of resin and hardener chemicals to use.
5% pigment should work pretty much universally in any epoxy system.
I’d still probably make a small test batch just to make sure, but the chances of anything weird happening are low.
Not sure if this is the right place to ask this so @mods please move if needed.
Does anyone have experience with using POM for gears? One of my mates said he can send some of these for testing
Will these melt or break?
Not sure if you are referring to me, but I’m not Andrew. I’m interested in using DuPont gears for a project.
Unless I hear compelling reason not to I’m going to try it. They claim it can withstand 25 herspers at 6k rpm with a load of 195kg. So if I layoff the toasted ravioli I think I should be safe what do you guys think?
Will DuPont POM gears fail on esk8?
0 voters
I’m gonna go with a big maybe. Acetal is great and all, but I’m not convinced it has the same strength as expected given how small the teeth are in the gears we use. My meat slicer had a POM gear, and that stripped out fast under much less load and much lower RPMs. If it can be designed well, it should work, but it’ll have tradeoffs.
Thanks for the swift response mate. Any suggestions on how I can safely test them before jumping on the board?
