Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

I guess nothing’s really stopping you from creating a sale thread and listing the price as free, if I fully understood what you mean.

There is a thread if you have some parts collecting dust :slight_smile:

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Apart from size and davega compatibility, which should i consider when picking between a flexiBMS or an LLT bms?

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The fact that FlexiBMS are not available makes that choice easy.

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well, the dropping has become worse, 50.3 to 39 on the first acceleration :see_no_evil:

so for testing internal resistance on single cells, i found this guide

should i just check all my cells that way, when they are balanced ?

Well flexiBMS is sold out currently due to component shortages, so if you need one soon, the LLT. But flexiBMS is compatible with Metr and freesk8 apps, and it’s always good to support one of our own. LLT might also have some models with a higher charge rate, not sure.

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You could, but you’re going to need a much larger load than a 100 ohm resistor.

Something like a one-ohm resistor would probably do the trick. Just gotta make sure whichever one you choose can handle about 2500 watts.

Do all screws with red loctite need heat to remove them?

Trying to decide whether to go Idler or no idler. I have belts that will fit the no idler version but would the idler really be a better upgrade.
Purchasing from Boardnamics.

Price.

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You kind of need to test it out. If you have no skipping under normal operation no idler needed. If it skips whatever you try to do or wears out the belts too fast you need an idler. In general though, the fewer parts the better

Heat is the easiest way. Depending on the fastener, you might be able to break it loose with an… enthusiastic level of torque, but you risk stripping the drive or snapping the head off.

Best to just use heat.

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Do you have lots of chargebacks?

the specs have to be that high if i measure a single p42a cell ?

For a single P42A, the maximum continuous discharge current is 30A. For a nominal 3.6/3.7v, you would need a resistor of about 0.12 ohms, with a power dissipation of ~105 watts.

This is for a full-current test. Lower currents may also yield results.
Basically the more current you draw, the more the cell will sag.

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it really just is so i can go over my whole pack and find the black sheep ruining my day :sweat_smile:

i found this 1.8 ohm 50w version locally, good enough ?

That will only draw about 2.4 amps. Hardly enough for that cell to break a sweat.

You need to match the value of the resistor to the desired current draw and the operating voltage. Use the formula V=I/R. (Ohm’s law)

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ok, im not really good with this stuff, but here we go

this is the the resistor i came up with, 0.22 ohm / 100W - should be pulling about 19A

V / R = I
4.2 / 0.22 = 19,09A

P = U * I
4.2 * 19,09 = 80.18 watts

am i doing this right :sweat_smile:

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none actually! the only recent dispute I’ve had was from the NeoBox ESC debacle last summer.

I just tried some automated bot chat and it told me that it was closed for security reasons and asked me to ‘verify’ my account and email - so I’ve tried that. The vendor confirmed no issue on their end so it’s Aliexpress blocking me for some reason.

Trying another order now :crossed_fingers:

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Would it be okey to fit 2 12awg wires (B- of BMS and main battery minus) into a 5-6mm^2 tube ring lug? I would think it would be ok due to the current ratings.