Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

With fresh bearings on the geardrive about 16-17wh/km at 40psi in the bergs.
After i hit a puddle or it starts raining a bit about 19-21wh/km until i change bearings.

Btw, had, thankfully.
Now i’m on moon drives with 9 inch mudpluggers, transferred the battery over and from the previous 30-35km range i now get about 25, 30 if i’m gentle. Although on the street keeping up with cars consumes 33wh/km and brings my range to 20km lol

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The positive ramping time is from the current position, let’s just assume neutral for simplicity, to the new value you input through throttle. Both negative or positive.
Negative ramping time is from accelerating or braking to the neutral when you let go of the throttle.
Let’s say you have 3s positive 1s negative throttle.
You’re going along a street and need to press full brakes.
It will take 3s to gradually increase brakes up to the maximum in this occasion.
Then you start accelerating to maximum immediately. It will now take 1,5 seconds to stop braking and 1,5 seconds to reach full acceleration.
Then you let go of the throttle to free roll. It will take 1 second to gradually release all power from the wheels.

Hope it’s not too confusing

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I think 17 wh/km looks awesome to me! I will get decent range from my board then if i ride somewhat carefully. Thanks for the help :slight_smile:

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You can pack the bergs and get even more range but i don’t really dig that urethane feel out of pneumatics tbh.

Btw, my numbers are for berg tyres, not berg rims with 6x2 tyres. Those consume quite a bit more

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I will be using berg tyres, hopefully untill timo it’s back!!

I’m going for pneumies for comfort so im ready to sacrifice range… If I need more range I would just switch to my 115mm and call it a day (if I end up not selling them)

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Oh shoot! That actually makes sense; the negative ramping time message Ben shared actually mentions it being from full output (acceleration OR braking) back to zero.

I’ll test some more tomorrow to check for myself. If that’s true, then what Brian said was the correct advice for OP who wanted a slower return to neutral. (I misread it at first and thought he was talking about positive ramping time, my bad! :sweat: )

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I just increased my “Negative Ramping Time” from the stock 0.2 seconds to 1.0 second and went on a 25 mile ride. When I am going at speed and I release the throttle, it takes 1 second to ramp down my acceleration to free rolling. It had no effect on my braking. If I am moving at speed and press the brakes, they react immediately with no delay.

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maybe control mode difference?

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Hahhaha, depending on the phone could also be the rich mans davega :grin: :laughing:

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Beware of the boxes, Brian. :roller_coaster: :grin: :ballot_box:
Dont play to much candy crush while skating :zipper_mouth_face: :hugs:

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My loop key sparks every time I put it in. I’m using an amass xt90-s. is the antispark in the xt90-s broken?

The resistor may be burnt, use a meter to check, probe the thin ring and the other hole

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Is it okay to just plug the loop key in once and use the board without unplugging it until I get a new xt90-s?

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technically it should be fine, but expect a constant small drain from battery. keeping the loopkey in, is just keeping the board on all the time

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Yeah just keep it charged

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@Creavenger had the same issue, he didn’t have his key plugged in fully. Make sure it’s plugged in fully

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turns out the resistor was burnt. @frame was right. I found an extra one and no sparks

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You can’t ride with it plugged in less than fully. If you do, you can burn up the resistor

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is uploading firmware to all vescs at once ok or is it better to do each by itself?

heard opinions on both but not sure which is correct

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I always do it individually.

Flashing all at once is/was always a bit wonky in my experience.

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