So stuff is starting to show up. I’ve got the FlipSky Pro 200A A/S, both of the battle-hardened 6354s(140kv) and I expect the DV6 in the next day or so. as I prepare to start putting stuff together a couple questions come to mind:
Running mode: I had planned on sensorless BLDC for simplicity. I don’t care about FOC and I don’t understand what HFI is. My question is if I should even plug in the sensor wires that came on the motors? If it adds a layer of complexity, or an additional potential failure point then I would just as soon skip using them. If it is nothing but beneficial, then I can plug them in.
To re-cap my requirements briefly - they are minimal. It’s a cheap mtb I am upgrading for fun (not out of necessity) and I ride slow on flat ground, sidewalk and maybe grass momentarily.
My plan may even be to keep the new motors on the shelf until I have an actual problem with the stock ones (they are already overpowered for my needs). Swapping the ESC for my cheap-o spare I had lying around from years ago fixed my problem and it is has been running great since then.
The DV6 I plan to install - I didn’t buy that upgrade to have it sit on a shelf. (When I bought the motors I thought I needed them).
Also a shout-out “Thank You” to @ShutterShock for the DV6 programming video. That is the part I am most concerned about as this is my first vesc-based endeavor. Boot loader first, that much I know.
Any reason to mess with the firmware? I think it comes 5.1 - I am never going to dig into features so leave well enough alone there?
Cosmetically I have already replaced the stock grip tape that had the logo on it, and I have some color-matched tires and rear drive wheels on the way. Also a few other little touches. I am pleased with the way it has come out so far given my relative lack of skill.
Are they complex? No, they autodetect in the setup process. FOC is also easier to use as it’s just a simple setup wizard, and it will yield better results. HFI is kinda like sensors but it causes your motors to make weird noises from what I understand. If it’s easy to route the sensors, just use them.
And no, you don’t really need to change the firmware. Like I said in my video, I was doing it to directly compare to my old ESC. However, if you stay on 5.1 there’s a value you need to change, I think it’s Duty Cycle Current Limit Start, to 87% or something.
@b264 Knows it by heart now. You can just use VariESC to make it easier if you want.
I would do it, I love my sensors. Some people do not like them because they can fail from time to time. HFI is complicated and its effectiveness across motors varies. Sensors are part of setup
I’ve read on here that this should be 85%.
Presumably it’s as simple as change it and press WRITE. Any reason at all why I would not do that?
Maximum Duty Cycle is set to 95% and I would leave that one alone.
Could this have been the reason I wiped out the other day?
My sense was that it was sudden speed wobbles that I’ve been blaming on DKP… but maybe it was a slide caused by sudden loss of power?
It’s possible. Motors don’t have exact Kv, they can vary by a little bit due to manufacturing tolerances. If your left and right motors have slightly different Kvs (they almost certainly do) then this could definitely initiate a wobble near top speed. It also could be something else, IDK.
Is there a way to set maximum top speed in VESC tool?
Looking around there’s doesn’t seem to be.
If not could I do it by reducing Duty Cycle Current Limit Start further (and also maybe reducing Maximum Duty Cycle to stay 10% over that so like 75% and 85%?)
I’m just not ready for the top speed this thing can do but I keep finding myself not paying attention and going too fast.
Yes, you have to set “Maximum Duty Cycle” to some amount less than 95%, and then set “Duty Cycle Current Limit Start” to about 7% less than you set Maximum Duty Cycle to.
For example, set
Maximum Duty Cycle to 48%
Duty Cycle Current Limit Start to 41%
and then your skate would only go half as fast, for example.
If you try to set “Maximum ERPM” then you can loose brakes above that speed and it’s generally not recommended to change those default values — on an esk8. On an airplane or something, I’d use those instead of the duty cycle settings.
Careful with those DKP. If they’re more barrel bushings, you’d probably get away with adding more speed to them. But I would limit going top speed otherwise. They’re really nasty when going fast.
a friend got his board internals soaked…
battery is fine but focbox 1.6 probably fucked. It makes a loud clicking noise instead of spinning the motor at the motor setup.
irrc this means the DRV is dead?
Can anyone confirm?
AFAIK, one must not charge two 6S lipos connected in series as a 12S. They should be disconnected and charged individually or in parallel as a 6S.
It’s not the same scenario but would it be ok connecting 2x6S lipos (12S, connected in series) in parallel to the main 12S pack as a battery extender? Of course, assuming the two 12S packs have the same voltage and disregarding capacity, resistance, etc differences between the packs; just for the sake of confirming it will not start to burn.
